Jul 8, 201012:00 AM
Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

Yo Ho Ho and a Bottle of Bordeaux


Winemaking is an ancient art. 


Back more than 6,000 years ago, our ancestors nodded off one night after a hard day at whatever our ancestors did before cable television and the Internet, leaving a partially consumed dish of berries on the table, exposed to weather elements. 


A few days later –– obviously, our ancestors were not the meticulous housekeepers we all fancy ourselves to be today –– they noted the fruit had released its juice into the bowl and that the liquid tasted different from the fruit they had consumed earlier in the week. This was puzzling because the juice tasted something like the fruit, but it had a bit of a “kick” to it. 



What had been invented was wine. This lucky band of humanity’s first party animals experienced the natural process of the yeasts on the skins of the fruit attacking the sugars and delivering, to a happy tribe, the result: wine and alcohol.



Ever since this fortuitous accident of bad hygiene, which actually resulted in discovering a liquid that could fight infection and boredom at the same time, mankind –– and, of course, womankind –– has been seeking ways to make better wines, more interesting wines and the satisfaction of other personal oenological pursuits.



In so doing, we have discovered and created many great winemaking advances, but now comes a “return to yesteryear.” 


France’s Château Smith Haut Lafitte has made a very retro-decision to deliver their wines to distant markets in a sailing ship. No need to reread that sentence. You got it right the first time.

The respected Grand Cru Bordeaux château, where grapes have been grown since the 1300s and where the Smith family, of Scottish heritage, has been making wine since 1832, are taking their shipping-to-market business with sailing vessels. It’s either an interesting way for a winery to reduce its carbon footprint or a terrific publicity stunt. Intriguing group of folks, these Bordelaise winemakers.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte, located south of the port city of Bordeaux on the Left Bank of the Garonne River, has arranged for the 106-year-old British ketch, Bessie Ellen, to haul 20,000 bottles of the château’s currently released wines from Bordeaux to Montreal. 



The journey will cost the winery about 20 percent more than the industry-standard container shipping approach, with the extra cost allotted mostly to labor. The wines will require additional handling for loading and unloading, and there will be more time at sea. The journey will take 25 days, and it is the intention of the owners that this approach becomes a regular aspect in the château’s regimen. 


But here’s the most interesting thing in this seemingly odd transportation solution: the wines themselves, it is hoped, will taste better earlier.



In the olden days (yes, even before I was around, which tells you right there we are way back in time), the wines of Bordeaux were, of course, routinely sent to market on sailing vessels. The Port of Bordeaux was a bustling mass of wooden ships and loads of sail canvas. Every shipment that left this port, to places as near as England and as far as Australia, traveled the long journey under sail. And it is said that the wines gained their reputations as among the finest in the world after being tossed about aboard sailing ships. 


Château Smith Haut Lafitte hopes to duplicate that effect of the sea upon the wines. In tasting trials, all done blind with wines that had been exposed to the sea’s constant motion and air-quality conditions, wines that traveled in the modern tradition of containers aboard massive ships and wines that were sent to market via aircraft, tasters noted a distinct positive difference in those wines that traveled under sail. 


These wines seem to age differently and result in a tendency to taste about a year older than their vintage. Given Bordeaux wine’s abilities for long aging, this attribute would mean the consumer would receive a more approachable product earlier in the wine’s life.   



For those of you that don’t see why any of this could make a difference, consider: 



1)     One of the items about which fine wine collectors are always wary is bottle movement. When fine wines are moved, or even disturbed, some of the material in the bottle that has settled, known as dregs, once again is distributed through the wine, adding harshness and bitterness. But early in a wine’s life these elements do not impart the edges to the wines that will happen over a period of years. Instead, early on, they can add character and bouquets that enhance and define the character of the wine.



2)     The purpose of stoppers, either screw-cap or corks, is not only to contain the liquid in the bottle but also to allow a certain amount of air exchange between the wine and the surrounding environment. Does it make it more interesting for the wine if the environment is sea-air as opposed to an air-conditioned sealed container? 



The sailing-ship approach is an interesting one. It wins the let’s-keep-wine-romantic sweepstakes, with a pleasant image of wines resting comfortably in the hold and sails lofted overhead. 

 

It may also win the good-to-the-environment award by not burning fossil fuel for The Crossing. 



Whatever, it can’t hurt, unless the winery determines to raise prices to even higher levels, for which Bordeaux is so famous. 



Or unless you don’t like your wine with a touch of sea air –– in which case, me hearty, maybe walking the plank will be too good for you.  

 

 



The Wine Show with Tim McNally can be heard every Sunday from noon to 2 p.m. on WIST-AM 690.
 

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All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

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In New Orleans, when the subject is wine and spirits, it is very difficult to leave Tim McNally out of the discussion. He is considered one of the “go-to” resources in the Crescent City for counsel and information about adult beverages and their place in the fabric of life in this great city.

Tim is the Wine and Spirits Editor, columnist and feature writer for New Orleans Magazine; the Wine and Spirits Editor and Happy Hour blogger for myneworleans.com; the Executive Editor and monthly features writer for Gulf Coast Wine + Dine Online; creator and editor of his own website, winetalknola.com; all in addition to his weekly hosting duties on "The Wine Show," a radio program entering its second decade of broadcasting in New Orleans. "The Wine Show with Tim McNally," is on the air at WGSO – 990AM, every Friday at 5 p.m.

Over the years, Tim has proved to be a master interviewer, putting his guests at ease, and covering tactile and technical information so that even a novice can understand difficult agricultural and production concepts. Tim speaks with winemakers, wine and spirit ambassadors, distillers, authors, people who stage events and festivals, and takes questions from listeners and readers, all seamlessly blended together in a program that is unique in America.

Tim’s love of wine came about many years ago from his wife-to-be, Brenda Maitland, a noted journalist in her own right, and together they have traveled to the major wine producing areas in the US and Europe, seeking first-hand information about beverages that give us all so much pleasure.

The couple was instrumental in the founding of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, a major, well-regarded festival of its type both nationally and internationally. Tim and Brenda both continue to be involved with the planning and staging of this multi-venue, five-day event now more than 20 years old.

Tim is also considered one of the foremost professional wine judges in the US, being invited to judge more than 11 wine competitions each year, including the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (the largest competition of American wines in the world, with more than 6,000 entries), the Riverside, CA International Wine Competition, San Francisco International Wine Competition, Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition, Indiana International Wine Competition, Sandestin, FL Wine Festival Competition, U.S. National Wine Competition, and the National Wine Competition of Portugal.

Tim is a guest lecturer to many local wine and dine organizations, and speaks each year to the senior class in the School of Hotel and Restaurant Management at Auburn University in Auburn, Ala.

Staying abreast of the news of the wine and spirits world is a passion for Tim, and he is committed to sharing what he knows with his listeners and readers. “Doing something I love, with products that I truly enjoy, created by interesting people, coupling the experience with culinary excellence, and doing it all in the greatest city in America,” are the words Tim lives by.

You can reach Tim by email at timideas@bellsouth.net.

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