Sep 17, 200912:00 AM
Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

Equal Time: It’s the Law!

Cocktails, like wine, are much more enjoyable if you know your preferences. They are better still if you can instruct your bartender on how you'd like them made.

sxc.hu

OK, so that strange “equal access” rule does not apply to Internet media outlets, but that does not let us off the hook to provide balanced reporting, even when that reporting comes with a heavy dose of personal opinion.

(Yes, you read that right; one of us has finally admitted it.)

Anyway, last week, we discussed some excellent ways to learn more about wine, including naming a few books that will set you in a nice direction.

And in the interest of fairness, this week we will look at some ways for you to better understand spirits. No, not that kind, though Halloween is right around the corner, and year-round, New Orleans treasures her other-world residents.

In my little corner of the Internet, spirits are defined by alcohol content and the differences that result from the distillation of certain raw ingredients, such as grains, grapes, potatoes and the like. Lucky me.

Just as in the approach to wine that we suggested last week, you will derive much more enjoyment with spirits if you possess knowledge of what you are drinking rather than just diving in and concentrating on where the next one is coming from.

But spirits are a way more diverse topic than wine, so it gets a bit more complicated. Spirits come from so many resources and can be created using so many different processes –– and then there’s the smell and taste deviations that occur to the same spirit, such as vodka, when it’s from Mother Russia or France or Sweden or any of more than 100 other places. After you have moved beyond that piece of knowledge, you are now faced with the infusion factor.

Do you want your vodka infused with cherries or strawberries, blueberries, lemons, limes or … well, you get the idea. There are plenty of decisions.

Yet in spirits, you are allowed, according to the International Code of Tim, to have favorites and stick to them. I don’t condone that kind of behavior in wine, but in spirits, you can drink your Black Jack all night long if you desire.

This makes tasting an interesting issue when it comes to spirits –– and one I have often wondered about. Good, law-abiding citizens sidle up to the bar all the time and blurt out their favorite concoction, and they do this over and over again, without regard to telling the bartender how to make the drink, what ratios of liquor to mix are preferred and what garnish of fruit or citrus to add.

Now it seems to me that if I had a favorite cocktail, and more on that later, then I would communicate that preference and want it that way. But I don’t really see that behavior very often with bar patrons. It’s “scotch and water” without further comment. Which scotch? How much water?

Those on the patron side of the bar often don’t identify the base spirit in the drink, only the broad category. The liquid in the drink that provides the reason for having the drink is left unrequested.

Again, if I liked a particular spirit, I would have a favorite in the category and ask for it by name –– not always, but more often than I see that kind of behavior in others.

I guess it’s also true of wine when the watering hole offers wine by the glass. You sort of have to choose from a broad range of varietals rather than naming a particular winery label.

Anyway, learning about spirits, what it is you like and what each brings to the rocks glass, is fun and adds to the enjoyment of the festivities. With this topic, there is much to grasp. Then there is the ability, after the fundamentals are clear, to head off into a completely different direction. And that brings us to the Joy of the Cocktail.

Dale DeGroff is the ultimate cocktail educator, innovator, definer and refiner. He is known as King Cocktail in those circles that recognize excellence in this field. His books, The Craft of the Cocktail and The Essential Cocktail, are literally college educations in this expanding field.

DeGroff not only defines the classic methods of making drinks you have heard about all your life but also tells you the history of those drinks and provides the recipes for other variations. It’s fun reading, even if you have no plans to pick up a shaker and a strainer and do something about it. 

drink'-ol-o-gy by James Waller is also an excellent starting point. At close to 400 pages, this compact yet very full volume provides cocktail-information-overload. You will be hard-pressed to come up with a cocktail question or situation that is not addressed here. And you can take the notes that accompany the recipes and use them to make small talk while you correctly fix your guests the drinks. It’s just about the next best thing to actually being in a bar with a truly professional and highly trained mixologist, an all too-rare occurrence these days.

Finally, please allow me to recommend The Ultimate Bartender’s Guide by Fred DuBose. This no-nonsense spiral-bound 250-page book contains 1,000 cocktail recipes from The Four Seasons restaurant in New York. If you are seeking historical perspective or tidbits of chatter, this is not your book. But if you want solid, time-tested recipes, look no further. The author provides easy-to-follow instructions with well-defined ingredients and quantities. You simply follow what has worked at The Four Seasons, and that means learning from the best.

Now to the point of ordering a drink and allowing a complete stranger to make it so that you’ll like it. The more you know about ingredients and how they work together in a glass or cocktail shaker, the better you will enjoy the experience. That’s what knowledge does for you: It adds to your quality of life. I learned that after I left college … I did not know it when I was there.

Anyway, find out what you like or find out precisely how a drink is supposed to be constructed, and then insist that your drinks follow that recipe. My wife and I are notoriously fussy about margaritas, hating the insipid, classless sweet syrup frozen mess that passes for this classic and wonderful drink in most bars.

We demand that the drink be made correctly. In truth, the classic margarita is not about sugar, not about sweet syrup and just about the easiest drink in the world to make. But unless you provide the recipe to the bartender in most establishments, you will continue to be served the syrupy-sweet version.

Anyway, learn the right way to make your favorite drink, and then, using your personal preferences, experiment and find the right combination of ingredients for you.

But, as we say before heading out for the evening, lay a base. In this case, the base is knowledge. Then there’s the other base, too, eating, which is always a great idea.  

And this probably goes without saying because you are such a responsible citizen: When you have overindulged, call a cab. Don’t go driving on the streets after you have had a night of perfect cocktails, made to your liking. It does not take long for a nice night to go awry. 

 

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Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

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In New Orleans, when the subject is wine and spirits, it is very difficult to leave Tim McNally out of the discussion. He is considered one of the “go to” resources in the Crescent City for counsel and information about adult beverages and their place in the fabric of life in this great city.

 

Tim is the Wine and Spirits Editor, columnist and feature writer for New Orleans Magazine; the Wine and Spirits Editor and weekly columnist, Happy Hour, for www.MyNewOrleans.com; the Executive Editor and monthly features writer for Gulf Coast Wine + Dine Online; creator and editor of his own website, www.winetalknola.com; all in addition to his daily hosting duties on the radio program, The Dine, Wine and Spirits Show, on the air at WGSO – 990AM, every weekday, 3- 5 p.m, and streamed live on www.wgso.com.

 

Over the years, Tim has proved to be an informed interviewer, putting his guests at ease, and covering tactile and technical information so that even a novice can understand difficult agricultural and production concepts. Tim speaks with winemakers, wine and spirit ambassadors, distillers, authors, people who stage events and festivals, and takes questions from listeners and readers, all seamlessly blended together in a program that is unique in America.

 

Tim’s love of wine actually came about many years ago from his then wife-to-be, Brenda Maitland, a noted journalist in her own right, and together they have traveled to the major wine producing areas in the US and Europe, seeking first-hand information about beverages that give us all so much pleasure.

 

They were instrumental in the founding of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, a major national and international well-regarded festival of its type. They both continue to be involved with the planning and staging of this multi-venue, five-day event now over twenty years old.

 

Tim is also considered one of the foremost professional wine judges in the US, being invited to judge more than 11 wine competitions each year, including the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (the largest competition of American wines in the world, with more than 6,000 entries), the Riverside, CA International Wine Competition, San Francisco International Wine Competition, Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition, Indiana International Wine Competition, Sandestin, Florida Wine Festival Competition, the State of Michigan Wine Competition, the U.S. National Wine Competition, and the National Wine Competition of Portugal.

 

Tim is a guest lecturer to many local wine and dine organizations, and speaks each year to the senior class in the School of Hotel and Restaurant Management at Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama.

 

Staying abreast of the news of the wine and spirits world is a passion for Tim, and he is committed to sharing what he knows with his listeners and readers. “Doing something I love, with products that I truly enjoy, created by interesting people, coupling the experience with culinary excellence, and doing it all in the greatest city in America,” are the words Tim lives by.

 

It’s a good gig. 

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