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Sep 13, 201708:00 AM
Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

Wooden It Be Nice?

There should be no surprise to know that whenever whiskey lovers or wine geeks gather to discuss what’s in the glass at the moment, inevitably the discussion turns to wood. More specifically, oak. So what is that all about? Wood in a beverage discussion? Is this our inner-termite coming out?

It’s most interesting how crazy-expensive adult beverages, created with completely different manufacturing techniques from wildly different raw products, destined for different times of use, can have something so important in common: barrels made of oak.

Is it the process that demands the use of oak when creating the beverage, or is it the preferences of the end-user? There is no denying the use of oak in the fermentation of most wines, and all the high-end wines and the distillation of classic spirits must all pass through the storage-in-oak stage.

In the interest of clarity and simplicity, let’s divide the question and see how oak is used to create more sophisticated and pleasurable beverages.

 

WINE 

Looking back to ancient Mesopotamia and to the Roman Empire, there was a desire to spread the civilization. Staying in one place, even back then, was not a viable option because conquest was sexier than defense.

The Mesopotamians, the original wine geeks, stored wine in palm wood barrels primarily due to the light weight of the wood. Wine is a heavy liquid and carting the wine to the point of consumption was arduous. Keep in mind that wine back in ancient times was the primary daily drinking beverage. Milk from animals did not last without refrigeration and water was almost always polluted. Did you think that humans messing with the environment was a “modern” menace? Nope.  

Along come the Romans and their empire expansion programs. They used clay amphora, large vessels, to transport wine often which were heavier than the wine and easily broken or cracked.

Throughout the ancient world there were forests, many of oak and pine. Pine imparted to the wine resins, which completely changed the liquid. Oak, on the other hand, is not a sap-dominated wood and it offered the possibilities for an excellent aging and transportation vessel, swelling and sealing leaks when the liquid was placed into the barrel. Today, we also understand the essential exchange of air, which takes place between the interior and exterior of the barrels. This aspect allows for wine to mature properly and slowly.

There was also the benefit of a more developed taste on the palate along with the portability factor.

Today, more than 2500 years later, we store wine in three types of oak. French oak is the most desired, imparting to the wine a light vanilla character. American oak, preferred by Spanish and South American winemakers, in addition to vanilla also brings a little coconut to the final mix. And Eastern European oak, which is not as complicated or as tight-grained as the previously noted oaks but offers the significant advantage of lower material cost.

All barrels today are actually “toasted” over fire, which seals the internal sap present within the staves and the firing process creates yet more flavor and aromatic dimensions in the wines to be fermented, aged, and stored in the barrels. 

 

Whiskey

Whiskey, and we will be limiting our discussion here to Bourbon and Scotch, also focuses on the same woods that the wine industry uses. But in Whiskey’s case, used barrels, usually shunned by the wine industry after three or five years of constant use, are sought after.

The real exception is American Bourbon production which by law must use barrels constructed of new American White Oak, and then only for one-time use. After that the barrels are sold to other distilleries, such as those in Scotland, or to distilleries that don’t make whiskey. Brandies, sherry and cognacs, along with other long-aging products, are ideal second-use outlets for the Bourbon barrels.

Lately, because of cost, we have seen experimentation with aging in neutral vessels, some made from concrete or ceramic, into which are placed oak staves in a lower quantity than constructing an entire barrel, or oak chips in a pouch placed into the newly fermented or distilled alcohol product.

Which brings us to the answer as to whether oak is a great manufacturing additive or if the end-user, namely you, demands the taste profile created by the oak. The definitive answer is both. The wine or spirit is a better expression with oak influence, and you, the consumer, appreciates what oak brings to the party.

Even with the rise of unoaked Chardonnay wine, which is the winemakers’ recent response to the consumer complaint that there was too much oak used in the fermentation and storage stages, that particular style of wine sells less than 4% of all the Chardonnay on the market.

In reality, a mere drop of wine in the barrel of what consumers want to drink to slake their thirst for interesting and multi-faceted beverages.

 

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Read Happy Hour here on myneworleans.com every Wednesday, and listen to The Dine, Wine and Spirits Show, hosted by Tim, every weekday, 3:00 – 5:00 p.m. on WGSO 990AM and streamed as well as stored (podcast), at www.wgso.com. Also, check out Last Call, Tim’s photo-feature every month in New Orleans Magazine.   

 

 

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Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

about

In New Orleans, when the subject is wine and spirits, it is very difficult to leave Tim McNally out of the discussion. He is considered one of the “go to” resources in the Crescent City for counsel and information about adult beverages and their place in the fabric of life in this great city.

 

Tim is the Wine and Spirits Editor, columnist and feature writer for New Orleans Magazine; the Wine and Spirits Editor and weekly columnist, Happy Hour, for www.MyNewOrleans.com; the Executive Editor and monthly features writer for Gulf Coast Wine + Dine Online; creator and editor of his own website, www.winetalknola.com; all in addition to his daily hosting duties on the radio program, The Dine, Wine and Spirits Show, on the air at WGSO – 990AM, every weekday, 3- 5 p.m, and streamed live on www.wgso.com.

 

Over the years, Tim has proved to be an informed interviewer, putting his guests at ease, and covering tactile and technical information so that even a novice can understand difficult agricultural and production concepts. Tim speaks with winemakers, wine and spirit ambassadors, distillers, authors, people who stage events and festivals, and takes questions from listeners and readers, all seamlessly blended together in a program that is unique in America.

 

Tim’s love of wine actually came about many years ago from his then wife-to-be, Brenda Maitland, a noted journalist in her own right, and together they have traveled to the major wine producing areas in the US and Europe, seeking first-hand information about beverages that give us all so much pleasure.

 

They were instrumental in the founding of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, a major national and international well-regarded festival of its type. They both continue to be involved with the planning and staging of this multi-venue, five-day event now over twenty years old.

 

Tim is also considered one of the foremost professional wine judges in the US, being invited to judge more than 11 wine competitions each year, including the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (the largest competition of American wines in the world, with more than 6,000 entries), the Riverside, CA International Wine Competition, San Francisco International Wine Competition, Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition, Indiana International Wine Competition, Sandestin, Florida Wine Festival Competition, the State of Michigan Wine Competition, the U.S. National Wine Competition, and the National Wine Competition of Portugal.

 

Tim is a guest lecturer to many local wine and dine organizations, and speaks each year to the senior class in the School of Hotel and Restaurant Management at Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama.

 

Staying abreast of the news of the wine and spirits world is a passion for Tim, and he is committed to sharing what he knows with his listeners and readers. “Doing something I love, with products that I truly enjoy, created by interesting people, coupling the experience with culinary excellence, and doing it all in the greatest city in America,” are the words Tim lives by.

 

It’s a good gig. 

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