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Dec 22, 201610:30 AM
Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

Sushi Talk

Tsunami Sushi to open New Orleans location early next year

facebook.com/TsunamiNewOrleans/

            I first wrote about Tsunami Sushi’s move to open a fourth location in New Orleans back in November, 2015. Actually, the story appeared in the November issue of New Orleans Magazine, so I actually wrote that piece in early October. At the time, the restaurant was set to open in the first part of this year, but as sometimes happens, the project was delayed.

            The original Tsunami opened in Lafayette in 2000, and at the time it was only the second sushi restaurant in town. A second location in Baton Rouge followed, then a third in the Cypress Casino, in Charenton. Each serves a similar menu, some variation, particularly in the selection of sushi rolls available. The restaurants also share a modern, sleek design.

            The newest location will be in the Pan American building, at 601 Poydras St., though the entrance will face St. Charles Avenue. That building happens to be where my office is located, and so earlier this week, when Tsunami held a “popup” in the lobby during lunchtime, I took a few minutes to speak with Toon Nguyen and Fred Nonato, who are opening the restaurant with Tsunami owners Leah Simon and Michele and Sean Ezell.

            Nonato is from New Orleans originally; he grew up on the West Bank (Best Bank, Brah) and graduated from the culinary program at Delgado in 1998. He told me that part of the impetus to open the New Orleans location was so he could return to his hometown, but the Ezell family has connections here as well.

            If you dine at a lot of sushi restaurants, you’ll notice a lot of the menus are interchangeable. What distinguishes one from another are most often the rolls. When we think sushi, we most often picture nigiri, which are hand-formed, bite-sized oblongs of rice topped with, usually, raw fish. There’s not a lot of room for innovation in nigiri, but rolls are another matter. At Tsunami, several rolls are named for people influential in the Ezell’s life, such as the Father Calais, (tuna, salmon, crab stick, masago (fish eggs), avocado and cucumber), and the Michael Doumit, (fried softshell crab, avocado, cucumber, masago and Tsunami sauce). Father Calais was the Ezell family’s priest when they were growing up, and Doumit, an accomplished caterer in Lafayette, was something of a mentor when the original Tsunami opened.

            Tsunami is also one of the only sushi restaurants I’m aware of to include alligator (cooked) on its menu. Nonato and Nguyen told me that several other dishes on the menu are the result of the diversity of the restaurant’s staff, which includes folks from Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Korea in addition to Japan. You can see that influence in the Thai beef salad with Vietnamese dressing that shows up as an appetizer, and in the collard green kimchi that’s available as a side dish.

            Tsunami’s New Orleans location should open in February, and they’re hoping to be operating by the time Carnival rolls around. There will be approximately 200 seats, including 20-30 under the oak trees that line the St. Charles side of the building, and 15-20 at the sushi bar. The space is still under construction at the moment, but Nonato told me it will be their most upscale to date. They’re still working out opening hours, but are already thinking of opening on Sundays during the Saints season.

            Look for more about Tsunami in a few months, until then, let me know your favorite sushi restaurant in the comments. 

 

 

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Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

about

Robert D. Peyton was born at Ochsner Hospital and, apart from four years in Tennessee for college and three years in Baton Rouge for law school, has lived here his entire life. He is a strong believer in the importance of food to our local culture and in the importance of our local food culture, generally. He has practiced law since 1994, and began writing about food on his website, www.appetites.us, in 1999. He mainly wrote about partying that year, obviously.

In 2006, New Orleans Magazine named Appetites the best food blog in New Orleans. The choice was made relatively easy due to the fact that Appetites was, at the time, the only food blog in New Orleans.

He began writing the Restaurant Insider column for New Orleans Magazine in 2007 and has been published in St. Charles Avenue, Louisiana Life and New Orleans Homes and Lifestyles magazines. He is the only person he knows personally who has been interviewed in GQ magazine, albeit for calling Alan Richman a nasty name. He is not proud of that, incidentally. (Yes, he is.)

Robert’s maternal grandmother is responsible for his love of good food, and he has never since had fried chicken or homemade biscuits as good as hers. He developed his curiosity about restaurant cooking in part from the venerable PBS cooking show "Great Chefs" and has an extensive collection of cookbooks, many of which do not require coloring, and some of which have not been defaced.

Robert lives in Mid-City with his wife Eve and their three children, and is fond of receiving comments and emails. Please humor him.

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