Edit ModuleShow Tags

Feb 22, 201811:07 AM
Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

As I Lay Bleeding

 

Once more I have cut myself to the quick, or at least on the tip of the first finger on my left hand. Though the actual wound is measurable in millimeters, I am a hearty man and prone to emotional outbursts, and thus those of my children within earshot at the moment heard what we once described as “salty” language.

Wikipedia tells me that these days the kids do not use “salty” as shorthand for the profane language expected of a sailor in the 18th century, but rather as a description of someone who is angry and/or upset. What I find interesting is that the distinction between the generational meanings is subtle enough that for the last year when my son or daughter have used the term, I’ve understood the gist of what they were trying to say.

I cut myself slicing a skirt steak that I cooked for dinner for my family. That detail isn’t terribly important, but this is a blog about food after all, and so far food has been merely tangential. I figured I’d throw the skirt steak detail in at this point to keep you reading. I know how you people love a) skirt steak, and b) details.

I cooked lunch today for a friend who may be leaving town. This is a person with whom, aside from my wife, I have shared more meals with than anyone over the last 20 years or so. Meals that were great in no small part due to the company.

We don’t have a lot of lunches left, I think, given our age. That’s a bit sad, but as I always say, “when the chips are down, who the fuck has chips?” I don’t actually say that, but if I were the sort of man who had chips now and again, I bet I would.

So for lunch I bought a few lamb t-bones at Whole Foods, which to my surprise was about the cheapest place I could find lamb. I trimmed the chops of excess fat and rendered that fat in a pan. I added some Wondra flour, port wine, a bit of tomato paste, minced marjoram, garlic and shallot and let everything come together before adding some water and letting it reduce.

I marinated the chops in olive oil, lemon, salt and a bunch of different herbs from my garden, then broiled them in my oven on top of a cast-iron grill pan. I regret to say that a couple of the thinner chops overcooked a bit, but the thicker ones turned out well after we let them rest.

I bought some broccoli raab at Rouse’s and braised it in the water clinging to the leaves after I washed them with thinly sliced garlic, shallot and Aleppo chile flakes. I should have used more of the peppers, but I suppose that’s the sort of error you can correct post facto. It’s much harder to recover from adding to much of something like that.

Because I sometimes take too long to cook things, I decided on cous cous to accompany the meal. Cous cous – at least the variety we can find here – takes around 5 minutes to steam after you add boiling liquid to it.

Because I apparently believe people will love me if I cook complicated things for them even though I know the people for whom I cook complicated things already love me, I made a mint-lemon balm broth for the cous cous.

I made the broth by combining a pretty good couple of handfuls of fresh mint and lemon balm in a blender with salt, water and a pinch of sugar. Then I strained the result into the saucepan I used for the cous cous. I didn’t add quite enough of the broth for the amount of cous cous, but man that broth was good. Lagniappe: I used the minced hers I strained out of the broth to make a condiment by adding a bit of lemon juice, a pinch of sugar, salt and olive oil. It did help a bit with the over-dry cous cous. 

I did not make dessert, unless one considers a cocktail dessert, in which case I made dessert.

It was a good lunch more because of the conversation than the food, but the food was pretty good too. It is a sort of lunch I will miss, but I am getting older and recognize that things end, but damnit I don’t know who the Ponyboy is in this situation and who is the Johnny.

That’s not the best analogy, I know, but I did want an excuse to link to that scene so there you go.

Without seeming like I’m just pandering to get comments, please let me know how (if?) you cook lamb. There was a time in the late 80s/early 90s that lamb was as inexpensive as pork, and I used to roast a leg one a week. These days, at least for me, it’s a special occasion thing. I suspect that’s the case for most of you, dear readers, so I’m interested to know what you do with lamb – what cuts, what method, do you allow for mint jelly? Comment, damn your eyes!

 

 

Add your comment:
Edit ModuleShow Tags


Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

about

Robert D. Peyton was born at Ochsner Hospital and, apart from four years in Tennessee for college and three years in Baton Rouge for law school, has lived here his entire life. He is a strong believer in the importance of food to our local culture and in the importance of our local food culture, generally. He has practiced law since 1994, and began writing about food on his website, www.appetites.us, in 1999. He mainly wrote about partying that year, obviously.

In 2006, New Orleans Magazine named Appetites the best food blog in New Orleans. The choice was made relatively easy due to the fact that Appetites was, at the time, the only food blog in New Orleans.

He began writing the Restaurant Insider column for New Orleans Magazine in 2007 and has been published in St. Charles Avenue, Louisiana Life and New Orleans Homes and Lifestyles magazines. He is the only person he knows personally who has been interviewed in GQ magazine, albeit for calling Alan Richman a nasty name. He is not proud of that, incidentally. (Yes, he is.)

Robert’s maternal grandmother is responsible for his love of good food, and he has never since had fried chicken or homemade biscuits as good as hers. He developed his curiosity about restaurant cooking in part from the venerable PBS cooking show "Great Chefs" and has an extensive collection of cookbooks, many of which do not require coloring, and some of which have not been defaced.

Robert lives in Mid-City with his wife Eve and their three children, and is fond of receiving comments and emails. Please humor him.

recent

archive

feed

Atom Feed Subscribe to the Haute Plates Feed »

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags