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Jan 10, 201310:06 AM
Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

The Language of Food Writing

Robert Peyton is out this week, so please enjoy this post, originally published June 15, 2010, on his personal blog Appetites.

 

New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton, in his review of Takashi, a restaurant that specializes in “raw offal and Korean-style Japanese barbecue,” wrote the following paragraph:

 

Cubed raw liver comes to the table as well, a chilled, lumpy stew dressed with salt and sesame oil. It tastes of lightning storms on the high plains, of fear and magnificence combined. It is faintly metallic, rich with blood.

 

You know, I read a part of Anthony Bourdain’s book, Medium Raw, and I agreed with something he said therein. I don’t have it in front of me, so I’ll paraphrase: there is a limited vocabulary available to folks who write about food. It becomes difficult, after you’ve done it for a while, to come up with a new way to describe bacon. I feel this particularly acutely, because I find myself reading things I’ve written six or eight months apart, and finding too little to distinguish the way I described what I was eating. And if I have this problem? I have the vocabulary of a gifted 12-year-old! You know it’s got to be tough out there for a food writer.

 

So I am charitably inclined towards an author who tries to stretch the limits of the language to evoke what is ultimately a very personal, very visceral experience. That said, I want someone to tell me what a lightning storm on the high plains tastes like. I do not want anyone to tell me what fear and magnificence combined tastes like. That’s a flavor of Mountain Dew, I believe.

When I saw the excerpt for the Times piece in my newsreader, I honestly thought it might be a joke. I mean, a place that specializes in raw offal and Korean-style Japanese barbecue? Not Korean barbecue. Not Japanese barbecue, but Korean-style Japanese barbecue. Lest I sound entirely parochial, when he’s not comparing liver to a thunderstorm, Sifton makes the place sound pretty damn good. Unbelievably pretentious, but pretty damn good nonetheless. I love both Korean and Japanese barbecue; I love offal, and I love less popularly appreciated cuts of meat. I bet I’d have a great meal at Takashi.

 

But I could not help thinking, as I read Sifton’s review, that he is writing for an audience that doesn’t really include me. That’s fair enough; he’s the restaurant critic for The New York Times, after all. But Jesus, Mr. Sifton, did you really have to conclude your review with this:

 

Takashi is probably not for everyone: too do-it-yourself and odd. But its eccentricity is honest, its atmosphere winning and its food quite good. So there is large intestine on the menu. You are not in New York to play on the junior varsity, are you?

 

Presumably if you consume large intestine, you’re on the varsity team? Or wait, are you on the varsity team by virtue of living in New York City? Everyone has limits where food is concerned. As I said, I love offal; liver, sweetbreads, and tongue are all favorites. I’d rather eat a good piece of skirt steak than a fillet. But I don’t think I’ve earned some sort of food credibility because I happen to enjoy things that some other folks find distasteful. By the same token, when I tried stewed pork intestines with mushrooms and tofu at a local Chinese restaurant not too long ago, I didn’t feel like some sort of junior varsity bench-warmer because it wasn’t for me.

 

I don’t know, maybe it’s beautifully written. Maybe it’s poetry; and maybe I just don’t get it. But Jesus, people: a lighting storm on the high plains?

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Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

about

Robert D. Peyton was born at Ochsner Hospital and, apart from four years in Tennessee for college and three years in Baton Rouge for law school, has lived here his entire life. He is a strong believer in the importance of food to our local culture and in the importance of our local food culture, generally. He has practiced law since 1994, and began writing about food on his website, www.appetites.us, in 1999. He mainly wrote about partying that year, obviously.

In 2006, New Orleans Magazine named Appetites the best food blog in New Orleans. The choice was made relatively easy due to the fact that Appetites was, at the time, the only food blog in New Orleans.

He began writing the Restaurant Insider column for New Orleans Magazine in 2007 and has been published in St. Charles Avenue, Louisiana Life and New Orleans Homes and Lifestyles magazines. He is the only person he knows personally who has been interviewed in GQ magazine, albeit for calling Alan Richman a nasty name. He is not proud of that, incidentally. (Yes, he is.)

Robert’s maternal grandmother is responsible for his love of good food, and he has never since had fried chicken or homemade biscuits as good as hers. He developed his curiosity about restaurant cooking in part from the venerable PBS cooking show "Great Chefs" and has an extensive collection of cookbooks, many of which do not require coloring, and some of which have not been defaced.

Robert lives in Mid-City with his wife Eve and their three children, and is fond of receiving comments and emails. Please humor him.

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