A Swamp Thing
By Marcie Dickson
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:00 AM
Now that I’m a Louisianian, I get to explore my bizarre fascination with swamps. I don’t know how it spawned: a young Jersey girl intrigued by murky ecosystems and the movie Swamp Thing. Maybe it started with frequent elementary school trips to the New Jersey Meadowlands, where my class learned of bird-watching, salt marshes and wildlife refuges. Or perhaps it blossomed during college visits to the Great Dismal Swamp in Virginia. Or maybe it’s simply an incongruent cultural interest in bayous, swamps and marshland. Seriously, how many Jersey girls like swamps? Regardless, I never thought I’d have an opportunity to live near bayou country.
The fascination ran so deep that not even two weeks after my husband and I moved here, we set out on an exploratory drive out of New Orleans. He wanted to explore the surrounding areas. I wanted to see swamps, swamp things, river shacks, mystic villages and alligators. So we drove off in our car sporting out-of-state plates, without a map or any forethought as to where we were headed. He’d heard Houma was ripe for sightseeing; I wanted to go somewhere between the Big Easy and Cut Off, almost certain there’d be swampland somewhere between.
There’s no need to continue the story because you probably know how it turned out: We ended up driving for hours through Houma, shady back roads, dozens of oil refineries. And amid my desperate attempts to spot alligators on roadsides and beneath overpasses, somehow we ended up on I-10 just as my cell phone died and restlessness started setting in. In all, it wasn’t a trip worth remembering.
I wish we’d asked someone beforehand where to experience swampland without having to go on an official tour. Ironically, two weeks after our twisted adventure, we had to evacuate to Houston for Gustav, and during the drive out there — a few miles past Baton Rouge — we discovered the Atchafalaya Basin, the largest river swamp in America. The discovery was a nice surprise after our initial dalliance into nowhere.
My eerie interest in swampland has been reignited recently by heightened talk of coastal wetlands restoration, so much that I spent this past weekend at Audubon Zoo’s annual Swamp Fest. Who knew I’d have so much fun in my own backyard?
Although there are hundreds of local festivals devoted to Cajun culture, Swamp Fest was particularly fun because it seamlessly blended Cajun food, music, culture and “swamp things.” Cajun and zydeco bands played onstage throughout the day as people ate crawfish bread; danced the “Cajun jitterbug”; bought Cajun creations and art; and strolled around the swamp exhibit, which showcased various wildlife, demonstrations and white alligators. After experiencing a tribute to swamps, albeit on a small scale, my fascination appears temporarily sated.
If the swamps and wildlife refuges of New Jersey are worth visiting (Great Swamp National Wildlife Refuge in Morris Country, Edwin B. Forsythe on the coast), the ethereal ones down here should never disappoint –– as long as they don’t disappear.
About This Blog
In spite of how much she tries to feign Cajun flavor and infuse her speech with yat, Marcie Dickson is not from New Orleans. She’s a Jersey girl — born and raised.
She still has intense cravings for Jersey bagels and “diner fare,” but she would gladly swear it off for a lifetime, especially if it means she can continue indulging in crawfish etouffee, jambalaya and bread pudding.
And it’s not that she’s chosen to disavow her New Jersey roots, it’s just that she’s incredibly smitten with New Orleans. Aside from hurricane season and shady politics, what’s not to love about this grand city?
She hasn’t quite decided what she loves most: strolls through Audubon Park, music in the Marigny, drinking daiquiris on sidewalks, or Mardi Gras, among many other things.
Her list continues to grow as she discovers more each day. Follow this quirky girl as she makes her way through this equally quirky city.
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Reader Comments:
Swamps in New Jersey? I find that hard to believe.
You need to visit the John Lafitte National Park Barataria Preserve, a short drive across the river. It was amazing, even for me, who grew up in New Orleans, and having been to a lot of swamps and marshes. There are plenty walking trails through out the park. On one trail a deer ran across the path just in front of us, and on another a huge alligator was lying right next to the trail boardwalk. I was a little hesitant, (actually a lot hesitant) to walk past it, but we didn't want to turn back before reaching the end of the trail, so we cautiously walked past it. I look forward to my next visit. Check out their web site before you go.
Good article. When I visited N'Awlins, I too was fascinated to see the classic swamps with the Cypress trees. The whole environment is very restful and tranquil. The Atchafalaya Basin looks to be the ideal swamp or marsh experience.
Great, honest post...how many northerners would ever admit to having a fondness of swamps. Most people who move here only focus on touristy things. It is good to see that you are explore all facets of NO and cajun culture, not just the superficial things.
You should go on a swamp tour sometime soon. Now is the best time to go. Jean Lafitte is good...or try Honey Island swamp tours...Honey Island is the wildest swamp in Louisiana.
You are brave. For me, the best way to enjoy the swamp is either on a canvas or photograph. :)
i love the swamps! in march we went on a tour of the pearl river swamps. it was spectacular! you'll have to go. it was in slidell. the swamps are so mystical with the wild flowers growing in the marsh and the moss drifting in the wind. there so much better then jersey swamps. instead of seeing swamp things and alligators uphere we might get a glimpse of the jersey devil. lol
and yes there are plenty of swamps in jersey! we have a lot of wetlands, but new orleans is so much better!!
OK. For a roundtrip driving swamp tour just west of New Oleans follow this route. Take I-10 West to 310 and cut across the Destrehan Bridge. Keep your eyes on the road but before the bridge and below 310 is some nice birdseye view of natural swamp. Take 310 to Hwy 90 West and drive thru Des Allemands. About 3 miles West of Des Allemands keep right off of Hwy 90 onto Hwy 182, or Raceland Junction road towards downtown Raceland. Go down hwy 182 about 1/2 mile and turn right on Hwy 307, cross the railroad tracks and keep going. Lots of curves on this road so be careful. Hwy 307 zig zags thru some pretty swamp- - - up close. Its a lonely road, so drive a dependable car with gas. Stay on 307 to Bayou Beouf where Zam's Swamp Tours is. Take that tour if you have time. Then keep going west on 307 to Chackbay. At Chackbay get onto Hwy 20 and travel west thru Chackbay to Thibodaux. Eat seafood gumbo at Boudreaux's Restaurant in Chackbay or Bubba's in Thibodaux. From Thibodaux go two miles up the bayou (north) on La.1 then turn left onto Brule Guillot Road. This road goes thru lot of scenic swamp to Chacahoula on old Hwy 90. At the end of Brule Guillot road turn left and in about 1/4 mile take a right onto ramp to Hwy 90 East. At this ramp you are 1 hour & 20 minutes from New Orleans. Travel back home on Hwy 90 East thru Grey, Bayou Blue, Raceland then Des Allemands and get back on 310 to I-10 East into NOLA. By the way all these places have good food and friendly people that'll help you stay on track.