New Orleans Magazine

A Great Smoky Mountains Escape in North Carolina

Haywood County nestled in the western corner of North Carolina consists of several sweet communities — Maggie Valley, Waynesville, Lake Junaluska, Canton and Clyde — all with their unique personalities and attractions, not to mention access to both the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. All make for a cool mountain escape when summer heat rolls in.

Stay

It’s a relatively short drive from the interstate to the 500-acre Pigeon River Mountain Retreat, but after a few minutes of maneuvering curvy mountain roads through peaceful farms and crossing streams, your blood pressure drops. This gated oasis near Clyde features six mountain lodges with full amenities including game rooms, saunas, fireplaces and hot tubs. Visitors may hike to the wedding chapel with its antique organ and bell tower or the Jonathan Creek Tavern overlooking the Pigeon River. The property offers sports courts, hiking trails and a helicopter platform in case you’d rather fly in.

Hike

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Another unique resort highlighting woodland peace combined with amenities is The Swag located on a mountaintop outside Waynesville and neighbor to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Enjoy local farm-fresh meals at its restaurant, indulge yourself at the spa or take a guided hike to Hemphill Bald through the park’s evergreen forests before reaching a summit with dramatic mountain views. The hike’s only relatively challenging but so much to witness along the way, from wildflowers to the homestead of James Wood who advised, “Relax in peace, take time to think, eat with friends, pick beautiful music, be with nature.”

Park & Parkway

About 50 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway runs through Haywood County and that includes spectacular hikes to waterfalls, unique rock formations and breath-taking panoramas. The Cataloochee Valley of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park offers a chance to spot wildlife (we saw a black bear and elk on our visit) as well as historic structures from the early 1900s, hiking trails and streams for fishing. Make sure to keep your distance to all wildlife.

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Dine

Joey’s Pancake House in Maggie Valley — which turns 60 this year — is a Haywood County staple, which is obvious from its lines of visitors waiting to enjoy its trademark pancakes, waffles and breakfast items. Make sure to take home some of its delicious syrup! For a more simpler breakfast, Blue Ghost Outpost outside Waynesville serves up creative craft coffees and pastries along with local art and provisions for sale. 

Chef Josh Weeks focuses on heritage-inspired food for his southern creations (we adored his trout from the local Sunburst Trout Farms) at Singletree Heritage Kitchen in Waynesville. At the Switchback at Cataloochee Ranch in Maggie Valley, Chef Jeb Aldrich blends Appalachian flavors with French and Alpine elements.

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Take Tea

New to Waynesville, the quaint Crown & Thistle tea shop serves up a classic afternoon tea with tiered collection of scones with preserves, delicate tea sandwiches, desserts and your choice of a steaming pot of tea. On occasion, the tea shop presents special events such as tea flights, Tea Time with Children and a costumed witch experience.

Get Picking

Kathy Taylor grows 75 varieties of apples along with peaches, nectarines, berries and farm-fresh honey on her Canton farm. She sells what she raises as well as her homemade jams, natural beeswax creams and lip balms, candles, soaps and other local goods. During the summer season, visitors may picnic in the orchard or pick their own produce and flowers, an experience Taylor hopes will erase what she sees as society’s disconnect with food. She recommends elderberry flowers which when dipped in flour, fried and sprinkled with powdered sugar “tastes like a beignet.”

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