Only a few short weeks ago, I publicly lamented the lack of things to do in New Orleans in November. How on earth could I say such a thing? November in New Orleans is quite delightful and, dare I say, an ideal time to be in the city. There’s so much to do.
Sure, tourists will always visit for Mardi Gras, Jazz Fest and Voodoo Fest, but I discovered that there’s an emerging festival that stands to compete: the New Orleans Po-Boy Preservation Festival. My husband and I were fortunate enough to drop by the festival for an hour, and we would’ve stayed longer but wanted to watch the Saints play and leave enough time to make it to the last performance of Romeo & Juliet at the Mahalia Jackson Theater. I thought we were ahead of the curve by arriving at the start of the festival and figured we’d gorge on poor boys, listen to music and high-tail it before hordes of hungry revelers descended on Oak Street. But of course, just like my earlier prediction about New Orleans in November, I was wrong. Dreadfully wrong.
By 11:30 a.m., there were what seemed like thousands of folks streaming down a newly paved and reconstructed Oak Street. There were lines at the 40-plus vendor stations. And the exotic elixir of smells was so intoxicating that people whisked around looking drunk off Drago’s charbroiled oysters and buzzed from Boucherie’s barbecue shrimp poor boy. It was vintage New Orleans: sights, sounds and savory sustenance. But what added to its allure was the fact that it took place Uptown, far away from the debauchery of the Quarter.
Another unprecedented surprise last month was the opportunity to see the logician of culture himself, Slavoj Zizek. He gave a talk at Loyola, and I sat within 100 yards of him — close enough to feel his spasmodic renderings on “ticklish subjects.” Although I’d hoped to hear him broach issues such as those he raised in his essay on New Orleans shortly after Katrina, he stayed in line espousing the idea of nonviolence as a veritable form of violence. And I suppose that’s something everyone needs to hear every once in a while.
Beyond the comings and goings experienced Uptown, so many other things were happening around the city throughout the month: the Fringe Festival; Middle East Film Festival; the National Brownfields conference, which was free; the premiere of the Blind Side — new New Orleans resident Sandra Bullock’s latest film; the Activists of the Year party at Martin Lawrence Gallery; the Bayou Classic; Thanksgiving at the Fairgrounds; and much more.
Of course November’s apex occurred last night at the Superdome. Watching the Saints outwit the Patriots was an electrifying way to end the month. The Saints are 11-NO!
It’s an exciting time to be a New Orleanian.
And, since my last entry, several of the issues I pointed out have since been reversed: the Hornets are riding a winning streak; Louis Armstrong airport is getting a major facelift; a friendly reader pointed out that there is in fact an Amtrak train that travels from New Orleans to Houston in 10 hours. And finally, I managed to make an edible batch of red beans and rice this Thanksgiving.
November was a magical month, a month full of fringe, opera, great weather, football and –– as always –– food. I guess these elements are a constant in New Orleans, but as I reflect on last month and look ahead to the future, I confess, I need a little break — a little time to recoup before traveling to Jersey for the holidays and stretching my pants for King Cake season.
But I’m afraid to slow down — even if for a minute. On the other hand, I’m afraid the excitement of the Saints and the calories of Carnival just might do me in sooner or later. Or never. I hope it’s the latter.
