This week will mark the 80th anniversary of one of the grandest moments in global military history – the Allied Landings in Normandy, which would be the beginning of the end of World War II in Europe.
Among all the explosions and fluttering flags there was one sight that belonged in a world of its own: a soldier, wearing a kilt, marching onto the beach. Those around him were carrying rifles, machine guns or bazookas. He carried a bagpipe. From the enemy weapons came the horrific sounds of fired bullets; from him came Celtic melodies.
This incident could have ended quickly with the unfortunate penetration of a Nazi shell; or it could have gone unseen and forgotten had the bagpiper understandably ducked for cover. Nevertheless, he marched on; even one-day inspiring a scene in “The Longest Day,” the classic film of the invasion, in which the bagpiper plops his way through the drenched sand. Though several of his colleagues fell, his music remained steady and amazingly uninterrupted by Nazi fire.
In the war’s aftermath, that incident would become sanctified in battle lore and eventually trigger a legend set on St. Charles Avenue in New Orleans.
That lone bagpiper would be identified as William Millin, born in Saskatchewan, Canada to a Scottish family that relocated to the old country where his dad was a policeman. Millin, 21, grew up in Shelleston, near Glasgow.
Early in his military career he played the pipes for the Highland Light Infantry and the Queen’s Highlanders. He then volunteered to be among the toughest of the though, as a commando.
Having pipers march into battle was a tradition in Scottish and Irish armies, but they usually marched in the back. According to Millin, on the day of the invasion he was ordered to lead the charge. He argued that military rules required that the pipes should be to the rear. The commander replied that those were British rules and that since he and Millin were Scottish, they did not apply to them.
There were five landing beaches at Normandy. The Americans arrived at what would be bloody Omaha Beach, the British landed at what was called Sword Beach. It was there that Millin was near the head of the charge, stepping out toward fame or possibly death. He was the only soldier in the entire invasion force who wore a kilt, and instead of a rifle he was given a knife.
To the chorus of explosions in the background, Millin played a selection of Scottish bagpiping military favorites; “Highland Laddie,” “The Road to the Isles” and “All The Blue Bonnets Are Over The Border”
Twelve of his colleagues were killed during their march.
Victory would come, but at that moment it was as uncertain as their lives. In the years after the war Millin became a celebrity being featured in documentaries and even songs. (In 2012 a Canadian Celtic-punk band The Real McKenzies recorded a song about Millin, “My Head Is Filled with Music”.)
His bagpipes were donated to a museum in the town of Dawlish, close to where he lived. There is a statue of him nearby. He may be the most famous non-pop twentieth century musician from Great Britain.
Then there is New Orleans:
One year, Millin, who would make several trips to the United States, was invited to attend an event at the D-Day/World War II Museum. While here, he reportedly even had a march of his own. One night he was found, possibly under the influence of something with a kick, reportedly walking around Lee Circle (as it was called then) playing his pipes. He was escorted back to his hotel.
I contacted Nick Mueller, who along with historian Stephen Ambrose, was a founder of the museum and its former CEO, for verification.
Mueller confirmed that Millin was in town at least once in the ’90s as part of a British Glider Company gathering arranged by Ambrose. The group stayed at the Pontchartrain Hotel. Mueller says he does not recall the Lee Circle story but apparently Millin did enjoy a good drink and the story “sounds like something he might have done.”
Retired UNO Historian Robert Dupont was there that night where the program included an event at the former Eiffel Tower restaurant (rebuilt from the original structure that, for maintenance reasons, had been dismantled from the top of the Paris landmark.)
Dupont recalled that during the evening Calvados (a hard-hitting French apple brandy) flowed freely. Ed. Note: If you have never experienced Calvados, sip lightly.
Since Millin was staying at the Pontchartrain Hotel Lee Circle would have been an easy walk. For passing New Orleanians seeing someone marching along The Avenue with a bagpipe would have seemed like a normal night.
Dupont met Millin and confirms the story that he did have his walk along the St. Charles neutral ground, though he could not confirm if he reached the nearby Circle.
So, we know the story is close to being true, we just don’t know for sure how it ended.
Bill Millin died in August 2010 at age 88. He made many trips back to Normandy and the French government named him into that nation’s Legion of Honor.
He would spend much of his career as a registered psychiatric nurse. Amazingly he would learn that psychiatry may have saved him. Through the years, Millin would make contact with former German soldiers that had been firing back at Sword Beach that day. He asked them why, since he was such a visible target, they did not shoot him.
Turns out they were sympathetic: They thought he had gone mad.
Bill Millin’s march was just beginning.
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