One of the most eagerly anticipated culinary events of the year was the unveiling of Miss River, the restaurant from chef partner Alon Shaya in the newly opened Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans. The space blends Art Deco influences and nautical nods to the namesake river, while works of photography and sculpture from local artists lend a sense of place. The kitchen, overseen by executive chef Kelley Schmidt, plays upon the flavors of Louisiana, from BBQ shrimp to beignets.
“The idea behind the menu and the service style was that we would really celebrate all of the dishes that make Louisiana cuisine,” Shaya said. “We wanted to bring some of that Vietnamese influence into the menu, show off the west African influence that has developed into things like gumbo and jambalaya and do dishes like dirty rice and fried chicken that we all love…in a way that’s surprising but still hits home to that classic dish.”
According to Shaya, the whole buttermilk-fried fried chicken was a key piece of the inspiration behind Miss River. “I had always wanted to do a whole fried turkey, like for Thanksgiving, but in the way that it would be breaded at Popeyes,” Shaya said. After a successful turkey experiment a couple of years ago, he resolved to one day include a whole fried chicken on a restaurant menu.
At Miss River, that chicken is carved at the chef’s stage, where guests can visit with chefs as they put the finishing touches on caviar service, seafood platters and more. “We wanted to create an area in the dining room where guests can either engage or not engage and use that space depending on the type of experience you want to have,” said Shaya. That interactive approach also applies to the walk-up sommelier station that encourages guests to explore and inquire.
After a period with minimal partying, Miss River puts festivity front and center, including wide aisles designed to allow space for second lining, according to Shaya. “We wanted to make it feel like a place where you can really spend hours celebrating.”