Food

TABLETALK: Sugar and Spice

New Orleans’ mantle of culinary tradition is proud but heavy, and it has stifled the creativity of local pastry chefs to some degree in the past. As a result, there are lots of places to go to enjoy an excellent…

TABLETALK: DOWNTOWN STEAKHOUSES

I’ve always regarded steakhouses as the dinosaurs of the culinary world: lumbering behemoths with primitive menus whose appeal lay more in brute strength than in careful refinement. But could it be that these restaurants are more variegated and complex than…

FOOD: FIRE IT UP!

New Orleanians love dazzling celebrations – flambeaux at Carnival, fireworks on the Fourth and flambéed desserts on special occasions. Fortunately for us, and for visitors to our city, our more formal restaurants still light up the final course of a…

Food

These days, I drive up and down Magazine Street so often that my old Civic probably doesn’t need me to steer. I know all the options for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A flash of pink paper in a window, and…

FOOD

Fulton Street. It�s more a concept than a traffic corridor. Over thelast year, a handful of restaurants have opened there: 7 on Fulton,Wolfe�s in the Warehouse and, most recently, La Boca. Everyone isclamoring for a spot on the half dozen…

RECIPE OF THE WEEK: Oysters Rockfeller

OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER 3 dozen oysters 1 10-oz. package chopped spinach, thawed and pressed dry 1 stick butter 1 bunch green onions, chopped; green and white parts divided 3 stalks celery with tops, chopped with tops divided 1/2 bell pepper, chopped…

RECIPE OF THE WEEK

This weeks recipe is from our sister publication Louisiana Life. Dr. John Beyt's Courtbouillon 1 (5-to-6 pound) gaspergoo, dressed, with head on 3 quarts water 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup flour 2 cups onions, chopped 1…

RECIPE OF THE WEEK: Pain Perdu, Discovering lost bread

I love New Orleans. It seems like I love it more since Katrina. All the things we hold dear are more important than before, when we took them for granted. Yesterday, I bought my grandson a bubblegum flavored snowball because…

RECIPE OF THE WEEK: Veal Sweetbreads

This week's recipe comes from our sister publication St. Charles Avenue Magazine. You can pick up your copy at over 300 locations around town or subscribe for home delivery for only $17 a year by calling (504) 828-1380. Iris Chef…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

Ah, June: a blessing – the start of tomato season – and a curse – the start of hurricane season. Welcome back: Chinese food returned to Carrollton Avenue about a month ago – Five Happiness is back at its “new”…

TABLE TALK: Re-piecing the Vietnamese scene

Recently a good bowl of pho has been hard to find. The aromatic broth full of beef and rice noodles began as Vietnamese street food. As New Orleans’ Vietnamese community grew over the last three decades, pho became as common…

RECIPE OF THE WEEK: CLAWS AND EFFECT

I thought crab cakes were an invention of the modern world until I realized we’d been making them all along. Here in Louisiana, ours were a little different; we just stuffed them into crab shells. About 10 years ago, I…

FOOD: Gumbo z’herbes

Lent and soups have shared a connection on European tables for centuries. Here in New Orleans that link was strengthened when innovative Creole cooks incorporated American Indian ingredients, African techniques and Caribbean flavors. They turned meatless meals into powerhouses of…

All Mixed Up

Dressings for the Holidays Dressings, or stuffings, are simple fare – just stale bread that’s soaked, seasoned and baked inside a bird or served alongside meat, poultry or fish. But when they are the heart of the meal, such as…

Crawfish Bisque

A Cajun dish that's disapearing By DALE CURRY If someone were to ask what the most difficult dish I ever cooked was, I would say without hesitation, �crawfish bisque.� Notably, I have prepared this dish only twice in my lifetime,…

Stuffing

It's not just for the birds I once came home from a St. Patrick’s Day parade weighted down with vegetables, an occurrence that as far as I know is exclusive to New Orleans. Hurled from the floats into my waving…

Save the Daube

Daube is one of the great winter meals in New Orleans, though it sits high on the list of endangered or lost dishes – those rarely cooked by the young folks or fading from the menus of neighborhood restaurants. Yet…

Carnival's Dish

Years ago, shortly after I moved to New Orleans, I was a guest at a Thoth parade party in the heart of Uptown. Bloody Marys, cheese straws and a meaty brunch dish served with grits sustained us while we laughed…

In a Curry

New Orleans loves traditions, especially food traditions. November is traditionally a time to talk turkey. So while discussing traditional turkey leftover recipes with fellow food fiend and writer/editor/publisher Kendall Collins Gensler, she mentioned her “tradition” of making day-after-Thanksgiving turkey curry…

Pop Art

New Orleans Retro Soda During a recent meal at Zea Rotisserie and Brewery in the Clearview Shopping Center, the waitress offered us home-brewed root beer or the specialty soda of the week, blueberry. Wow, not only does Zea brew its…

Batter Up

Some people hear the phrase “batter up” and head for home plate, bat in hand. I hear that phrase and head to the kitchen, large frying pan in hand. Batter-fried food is a staple of New Orleans cuisine – some…