Haute Plates

I Am Old

  Sometimes I think that I should make clear I write these pieces in advance. I don’t know why I think that. None of you are under the impression that I am now writing the words you are reading. That…

Mardi Gras Time

  It is Carnival in New Orleans and many of us are feeling very well, thank you for asking! So far it’s been a hit or miss affair where the weather is concerned, but we’ve seen worse. We’ll put on…

Valentine’s Day

  I’m not particularly “into” Valentine’s Day, but I’m aware that I’m in the minority on this issue and I don’t begrudge people who want to take a night to celebrate love. Because love, with a little help from inertia,…

State Of The Dining Scene

  I did not watch the State of the Union address the other night because I have been avoiding politics with some success for the last 20 or so years. I don’t care which side of the aisle a politician…

I Have Stumbled Into Healthy Eating

  I will be 50 this year. This news will shock some of you who think I can’t be a day over 48, but it’s true. I am aging, and I wonder the extent to which my senescence is coloring…

2019 So Far

There are places where on New Year’s Eve they drop a ball, and there are places where a symbolic baby is hoisted aloft wearing a sash that bears the number of the new year, while commensurately an ancient man whose…

Bal Masqué

And I Am Not Performing With the Rolling Stones

Looking Back

  Early this year I made some predictions. I will share with you my assessment of the result and a judgment on the overall accuracy. I hereby waive the inherent conflict of interest involved in judging my own predictions. My…

Kitchen Techniques

  I admit that recently I learned I have been using a standard can opener incorrectly, or at least not optimally. This video made me briefly question my sanity. If I have been laboring under the illusion that can openers…

Fusion

  Readers, I write today about a time when a strange passion gripped our polity. In the decade we called “the '80s,” there was a fervor for combining the ingredients, techniques and cuisines of myriad cultures into an amalgam that…

Fish and Et Cetera!

  One of my favorite restaurants in town, GW Fins, has a couple of announcements. First, on Dec. 5 and 6 the restaurant will have a seven-course dinner celebrating the feast of the seven fishes. The seating is communal, and some of…

Eating Well and Eating Healthy

  I read an interesting article recently that suggested the “eco-food” movement has become more about weight loss than environmentalism or ethical eating. The author reached this conclusion through her own experience and that of a former food-writer turned dietician. The…

What A Country!

Bellegarde makes the best bread in New Orleans. That’s an opinion, of course, and if you can point me to another bakery offering bread for retail sale that approaches their product I’d be very grateful, because I love bread. I went…

Crespelle!

  I think I’ve written before that the first thing I cooked when I had access to a kitchen after Katrina was crepes. I still have no idea why that’s what I decided to cook, but there you are.  Conventional…

Red Beans

  When I was a kid, my school cafeteria served red beans with sausage every Monday. I wasn’t crazy about the beans, but to this day I have a weakness for the sort of sausage that, like laws, one would…

Memorial for Rene Bajeux and Mango House Popup

I wrote a while back about the death of Rene Bajeux, and promised to follow up when I learned more about arrangements. There will be a memorial service on Oct. 9 at Patrick’s Bar Vin, and there is a GoFundMe page set…

Cooking for Visitors

A friend sent me an email last month alerting me that he was planning on surprising his wife with a visit to New Orleans at the end of September. He asked me for some recommendations and hoped that we could…

Catering

I attended the 25th anniversary of Joel Catering at Il Mercato on Wednesday evening. It was pretty sweet.  I should note at the outset that I’ve known Joel for a while and consider him a friend. I’ve certainly written about him in…

The Shape that I am In

  I was reminded of TV dinners recently. I’m talking about the Swanson-brand type – a tin tray with several compartments and a thin piece of foil on top. You popped the things into a preheated oven and thereafter the…

What, Again?

I got started writing about food on a personal website called "Appetites" in 2000 or possibly 2001. It was a time when there were so few “food blogs” that most of us had what’s called a “blogroll” on our sites.…

New Director at the LRA Education Foundation

The Louisiana Restaurant Association recently announced that Julie Talbot would be taking the position of executive director of its Education Foundation. I’ve known Julie for quite a while. Over the last ten or so year’s she’s been a constant presence at…

Cooking Gear and Where to Buy It

I have written before that I am a fan of Caire Hotel and Restaurant Supply. If I were forced to restock my kitchen entirely, I suspect I would buy most of the contents from Caire. I might pick up a high-end…

Waste Not, Want… A lot

I read an article not long ago that addressed food waste. We undoubtedly throw a lot of food away that we should be eating, and we certainly also aren’t using our resources as efficiently as we could. Raising cows for…

Shake Shack and Poor Boys

Many years ago I had the opportunity to meet Danny Meyer. I had planned a trip to visit a client in New York, and mentioned my travel to a friend and fairly well-known food writer/blogger based in the Big Apple…

Anthony Bourdain

I recall a time a number of years ago when I thought maybe Anthony Bourdain had jumped the shark. His sarcastic approach to reportage began to wear a little thin for me, but I continued to watch his shows, and…

Food Safety

I read an article recently that addressed when you should wash your food. I agree with most of the advice – wash anything you’re going to eat raw, and I rinse rice, grains and beans before cooking. The latter has more…