Restaurants

Dining Features

Sugar, Spicer and everything niceFoodies are probably familiar with chef Susan Spicer, a James Beard Award-winner, a guest on Bravo’s “Top Chef” in 2009 and even an inspiration for a character on HBO’s “Treme.” She opened Bayona in 1990 in…

A Native Son Blooms in Memphis

Chef Kelly English attended Jesuit High School in New Orleans for several years and graduated from the University of Mississippi in 2002. While in college, he supported himself by working at restaurants, and after graduation, he attended the Culinary Institute…

Southern Innovations

Boucherie is a restaurant to which I return frequently. I’ve become friendly with James Denio and chef Nathaniel Zimet, though whether that’s because I’m a regular customer or because I’ve written about them in the past,  I can’t say. I…

Random Thoughts

Over the past couple of years, I’ve heard complaints from a lot of people about the decline of service in fine-dining restaurants. In the aftermath of Katrina, the dearth of affordable housing meant that the pool from which restaurant staff…

Iris Stays the Course

When chef Ian Schnoebelen and his partner, Laurie Casebonne, decided to move Iris from the comfortable bungalow it occupied on Jeannette Street to the French Quarter, there were some worries as to whether the restaurant’s patrons would follow. The restaurant’s…

MEATS OF ALL KINDS

Steak is classic, though charcuterie boards give a guy plenty to choose from. Throw in some spicy grilled pork ribs with pickled watermelon rind and you’ve got a plateful of offerings few can resist. Nowadays locals have plenty of options.…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

October is when things start looking up around these parts; by now we’ve had a few cool nights, and even if I’m wearing shorts while trick-or-treating with my 9-year-old, I’m no longer worried about the 100-degree days of the past…

In Which The Reader Learns That I Love Tongue

The concept of “nose to tail” eating is probably most associated with chef Fergus Henderson, whose cookbook of the same name was published in 1999. Five years earlier, Henderson opened the St. John restaurant in London. There Henderson cooked British…

An Eclectic Creole Classic in the Quarter

I’ve known Andreas Preuss, son of Gunter and Evelyn Preuss, for many years. We have a tradition of going to Broussard’s with a few other friends on the Friday before Mardi Gras, just after lunch, to spend an hour or…

The Dream of Dairy

Pity the lactose-intolerant, for they miss out on one of the most diverse and delicious foodstuffs available to humanity. In thinking about cheese recently, it occurred to me that if milk could dream, it would dream of becoming cheese. It’s…

Sunday Italian

When I heard that John Besh was opening an Italian restaurant in the Roosevelt Hotel, which was then still undergoing extensive renovations, my expectations were high. Besh is a canny restaurateur, and his flagship, August, is among my favorite places…

Food, Drink and Music on Frenchmen

Three Muses opened at 536 Frenchmen St. on Aug. 11. The restaurant-bar takes its name from its three owners: Chef Daniel Esses helms the kitchen, Christopher Starnes manages the operation, and Sophie Lee is the music coordinator. It’s a relatively…

3 In The University Section

The neighborhoods surrounding Tulane and Loyola universities offer diners a slew of quirky and idiosyncratic dining options. Price points are often reasonable, making them attractive to students, and there seems to be a willingness to experiment on the part of…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

September is a cruel month. Yeah, I know what T.S. Eliot says about April, but in New Orleans, September is when things just start to cool down a little, only for the heat to come pummeling back like Mel Gibson…

Arnaud’s, keeping it in the family

Arnaud’s, located at 813 Rue Bienville, has been a staple in New Orleans practically since it’s opening in 1918. When Archie Casbarian acquired the restaurant in 1978, he knew the importance of keeping tradition alive. Rather than changing the menu…

New Wine Bar Spreads Its Roots

Oak Street has changed dramatically in the past five years. Using a plan that emphasizes community involvement in revitalization of neighborhoods called the Main Street Approach, the Oak Street Association has given the street a face-lift, bringing in new businesses…

The Roosevelt Hotel’s Sazerac Restaurant

When the Roosevelt Hotel reopened after an extensive renovation in late 2009, the principal buzz involved John Besh’s Domenica restaurant, the Blue Room and the glamorous art deco Sazerac Bar. The Sazerac was named the official cocktail of New Orleans…

Rambling on Camp Street

Rambla is named after a street in Barcelona, a city famous for its tapas bars: The restaurant, which opened in October 2008 in the International House Hotel at 217 Camp St., was envisioned primarily as a tapas restaurant. Tapas are…

A Little Bucktown in Fat City

Sid-Mar’s was opened in Bucktown in 1967 by Sid and Marion Burgess, just on the Jefferson Parish side of the 17th Street Canal. It was an institution in that neighborhood until Katrina and the federal levee failures. The Burgess family…

3 in lakeview

Lakeview was one of the neighborhoods hardest hit by the levee breaks, and commercial establishments were relatively slow to return. For a long time, homeowners rebuilding there were akin to homesteaders, having little in the way of supporting infrastructure. The…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

In some parts of the U.S., August represents the tail end of the summer heat. Not here, of course, where we can expect high temperatures and humidity for a couple of months to come. What is a man to do?…

Dining Features

Willie Mae’s: It’s about the chicken                 Restaurant manager Kerry Ceaton doesn’t have to brag about the quality of Willie Mae’s fried chicken – the restaurant’s numerous awards and recognition speak for themselves. Willie Mae’s Scotch House has received rave reviews…

The Corner Grocery

I thought of Justin Devillier recently when I was going through some pictures I’d taken at a James Beard Foundation event held last year at Kingsley House. It was a nasty day, cold and overcast, and I was in no…

Fried Catfish is High-Eating, Too

My mother’s family is from Amite, La., and when I was a child, we would regularly visit my grandparents on the weekends. They’d often meet us at Middendorf’s, which is conveniently located about halfway between New Orleans and Amite. I…

Rare Cuts and How to Cook Them

In the current economic climate, opening a high-end meat market would seem to be a risky proposition. But in December 2009, that’s exactly what Henry Albert did when he debuted Rare Cuts in Mandeville. He opened a second location in…

The Little Morocco That Could

Moroccan cuisine has not been well-represented in New Orleans in recent memory. Other than Casablanca in Metairie, the cooking of the North African nation has been hard to find unless you have friends from the country willing to invite you…