Restaurants

3 in lakeview

Lakeview was one of the neighborhoods hardest hit by the levee breaks, and commercial establishments were relatively slow to return. For a long time, homeowners rebuilding there were akin to homesteaders, having little in the way of supporting infrastructure. The…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

In some parts of the U.S., August represents the tail end of the summer heat. Not here, of course, where we can expect high temperatures and humidity for a couple of months to come. What is a man to do?…

The Corner Grocery

I thought of Justin Devillier recently when I was going through some pictures I’d taken at a James Beard Foundation event held last year at Kingsley House. It was a nasty day, cold and overcast, and I was in no…

Fried Catfish is High-Eating, Too

My mother’s family is from Amite, La., and when I was a child, we would regularly visit my grandparents on the weekends. They’d often meet us at Middendorf’s, which is conveniently located about halfway between New Orleans and Amite. I…

Rare Cuts and How to Cook Them

In the current economic climate, opening a high-end meat market would seem to be a risky proposition. But in December 2009, that’s exactly what Henry Albert did when he debuted Rare Cuts in Mandeville. He opened a second location in…

The Little Morocco That Could

Moroccan cuisine has not been well-represented in New Orleans in recent memory. Other than Casablanca in Metairie, the cooking of the North African nation has been hard to find unless you have friends from the country willing to invite you…

In Search of Barbecue

That old chestnut about New Orleans not having any good barbecue is something that needs to be put to rest. While not necessarily a hotbed of hickory smoked goodness, in truth, good barbecue has been available for a long while…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

Chef Daniel Esses, right, whose most recent executive chef position was at the Marigny Brasserie, is set to open Three Muses (536 Frenchmen St.). The restaurant will reflect Esses’ cooking, which lately has been dominated by Italian cuisine, but with…

Culinary Studies at Delgado

Over the past two decades, fine-dining restaurants and the chefs who run them have entered into the American popular consciousness in a way that would have been inconceivable 50 years ago. The trend is far too broad to address here…

Chef Spotlight - Tory Stewart @ Broussard's

Chef Tory Stewart, the son of military parents, was born in San Diego, California and lived extensively throughout the United States before finally settling in Florida.  At a young age, Tory started experimenting in the kitchen, preparing wonderful meals for…

The Golden Dragon Moves

When I was a teenager, I used to visit Jung’s Golden Dragon on Veteran’s with a friend and his father. It was a weekly trip for them, and I was always grateful to be invited. The location wasn’t the greatest,…

World Cuisine in Lakeview

Susan Spicer first gained a name in New Orleans as an executive chef when she opened the Bistro at Maison de Ville in 1986. Four years later, she and business partner Regina Keever opened Bayona, which remains one of the…

The Shreveport Scene

Periodically, my work as an attorney takes me to exotic locations. I have recently traveled to Destrehan and Gonzales, for example. In the past month, I have spent several nights in Shreveport, whence hails one of the associates in my…

Market Forces

The Crescent City Farmers Market operates on Saturdays at 700 Magazine St. at the corner of Girod; on Thursdays at the American Can Co. building at 3700 Orleans Ave.; and on Tuesdays at 200 Broadway St., along the River Road…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

Capdeville (520 Capdeville St.) opened in April on the one-block street that shares its name. It is an upscale bar-bistro, with a short but interesting menu. The Fried Red Beans and Rice ($5) are something of a take on calas,…

"Northern" Italian

Some of the best food in the world is simple. That’s a lesson I’ve learned over 30 years or so of paying attention to food and cooking. That doesn’t mean that it’s easy to produce good food, even with the…

Oil and Water

There is a lot of uncertainty surrounding the April 20 explosion on the Deepwater Horizon. The precise volume of oil and natural gas escaping from the ruptured well is the subject of debate, as is the size of the slick…

Link’s Flagship Sails On

Donald Link opened Herbsaint at 701 St. Charles Ave. in October of 2000. He was assisted in designing the restaurant’s concept and menu by Susan Spicer, who was initially a partner in the venture. Herbsaint has been Link’s alone for…

Casual Atmosphere, Elevated Cuisine

Dick & Jenny’s became wildly popular not long after it opened in 1999. Owners Dick and Jenny Benz caught a wave of enthusiasm for inventive food served in a casual atmosphere and rode it to success. Although the Benzes sold…

RESTAURANT INSIDER

Dick & Jenny’s (4501 Tchoupitoulas St.) is now open on Monday for dinner; since many restaurants are closed on Monday, having another place open is outstanding. You can call them at 894-9880 for information or to make reservations for parties…

FISH TALES

Making the most of their locations, restaurants along the Gulf Coast offer the very freshest fish they can and spice it up with elaborate preparations or just a simple slice of lemon.

Internationalist Cuisine in the Warehouse District

Mesón 923 opened recently at 923 S. Peters St. in a beautifully renovated building that dates from 1810. Astrid LaVenia, who owns the restaurant with Jerome Fertel, is responsible for the restaurant’s concept and overall design, which combines the 19th-century…

Consistency Is Key at Lilette

Chef John Harris opened Lilette in 2001. He had previously worked at Bayona and as executive chef at Gautreau’s, with a break in between for an apprenticeship in France. He’s received numerous honors locally and was recently nominated for a…

Meltdown Popsicles and Goings-On

Michelle Weaver has been making handmade popsicles for several years. In Los Angeles, she started selling standard ice cream –– along with her own creations –– from a Good Humor truck. She and her husband, Paul Pitalo, moved to New…

A Torch and the Loneliest Number

The Flaming Torch puzzles me sometimes. It’s in a category of restaurants that have a loyal following and produce excellent food yet still fly under the radar of most folks. The restaurant’s location, 737 Octavia St., may have something to…