Discovering New Orleans at Yang's Poor Boy Shop

I discovered New Orleans last week, and it was on the 4800 block of Bienville Street in Mid-City at a place called Yang’s Po-Boys. Until recently the building had housed what was the original Italian Pie restaurant. When that business moved to a new –– and totally fancier –– location on North Carrollton Avenue near Canal Street, that opened an opportunity for Alex Yang, who had been unhappy with the location of an eatery he had operated near Tulane Avenue.

Given the great culinary traditions that have come from China, Yang might be expected to take advantage of that, but his interest is in poor boys, New Orleans-style. I was having a roast beef poor boy one day when I noticed two Mexican laborers come in for lunch. They each ordered shrimp poor boys. I was amused when Yang’s wife delivered the order to the two men: They nodded appreciatively, and she replied, "Muchas gracias." Here was the essence of what this city, which has been multi-cultured since the day it was founded, is all about: a woman of Chinese ancestry serving the completely New Orleans native sandwich to two Hispanic men and each showing appreciation. The fact that the restaurant was located on a street named after the city’s French-Canadian founder just added more color to the picture.

Later that week I ate there again, and I had a chance to talk to Yang himself, who expertly talks the language of poor boys. He boasted about his roast beef, which he declared to be, in terms of seasoning, somewhere between "Parkway Bakery’s and Parasol’s." I suggested that he might want to try to create a Chinese-style poor boy. That he relegated for the future, after he gets his roast beef just right, but he did concede interest in some teriyaki possibilities, which, of course, is Japanese and only adds to the globalization.

Salads, gumbo and the expected fare are also on the menu at Yang’s. I wish his business well, though I am looking forward to the day when I can order a General Tso’s chicken poor boy, dressed, maybe with some meatballs and lo mein on the side.

NEW: SEE ERROL LABORDE’S MARDI GRAS VIDEO HERE.

Krewe: The Early New Orleans Carnival- Comus to Zulu by Errol Laborde is available at all area bookstores. Books can also be ordered via e-mail at gdkrewe@aol.com or (504) 895-2266)

WATCH INFORMED SOURCES, FRIDAYS AT 7 P.M., REPEATED AT 11:30 P.M. ON WYES-TV, CHANNEL 12. NOW ON WIST RADIO, 690 AM, THE ERROL LABORDE SHOW, 8 A.M. AND 5 P.M. SATURDAYS AND SUNDAYS AND 6 P.M. MONDAYS. 

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