A song recorded by Ray Charles entitled “Early in the Morning” (released in 1961) includes this memorable line:
“I went to Dooky Chase to get something to eat./ The waitress looked to me and said, “Ray you sure look beat./ Now it’s early in the morning…/ I ain’t got nothin’ but the blues.”
Adapted from an earlier song by blues singer Louis Jordan, who made the line, “let the good times roll” famous, Charles was known to be especially fond of the restaurant’s red bean and rice accompanied by fried chicken. Though “early the morning” may not be the most palatable time for such a dish, most anytime is a good time at Dooky Chase.
Last week, a 19 year old man who sought refuge in the foyer area of the restaurant was shot and killed trying to escape a pursuer, and three customers were injured. The incident brought to mind how important the Treme’ restaurant on Orleans Avenue has been to the history, culture and flavor of the city.
Founded in 1939 as a sandwich shop by Edgar Chase Sr., and his wife Emilie, Edgar developed a dining niche for Blacks who had few dining options back in the days when most everything, including restaurants, were segregated. The Chases’ business developed into a restaurant that specialized in the seasoned flavors of black Creole culture.
Ultimately, daughter-in-law, Leah, would become the face of the business. While Edgar had a subdued personality, Leah Chase had a loveable maw-maw presence that was enhanced by her food, including the fried chicken but also the bountiful gumbo.
In the days when the Civil Rights movement was developing, civic leaders – Black, white and Creole – often met clandestinely at the restaurant. The clientele was as culturally mixed as Leah’s gumbo.
Speaking of which, I hope Ray Charles got to experience her signature dish, Gumbo Z ’Herbes. For a devout Catholic serving food in what was a primarily Catholic town, the Thursday before Easter (aka Holy Thursday) was a big day on the Dooky Chase calendar because that was considered to be a fast day from eating meat. There is some ambiguity about the rules for Holy Thursday including on the Dooky Chase menu, yet the taste is an ecumenical miracle. For each Holy Thursday, Leah and her staff would cook up to 100 gallons of the Gumbo Z’Herbes made with nine different greens. Included in the mixture were mustard greens, collard greens, turnip greens, beet tops, chopped cabbage, romaine lettuce, watercress, spinach, carrot tops, cloves and onions.
So far, a vegetarian delight: Yet, also thrown into the pot was smoked sausage, smoked ham, brisket and andouille sausage.
So, which is it supposed to be meatless, or not? Fortunately, for the first time ever there will be a Pope this Easter season with New Orleans Creole Roots. Though he has not asked me, my suggestion for Pope Leo is to declare Gumbo Z’Herbes to be meatless though with an allowance for smoked meats if served in a certain Creole restaurant in New Orleans.
Meanwhile, the seriousness of the recent tragedy overshadows the spirit at a place known for happiness, harmony and history. Dooky Chase deserves a hallowed place in American cultural celebration. And for that, we are all blessed.
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To contact Errol, email elabordenola@gmail.com!
BOOK ANNOUNCEMENTS: Errol’s Laborde’s new book, “When Rex Met Zulu: And Other Chronicles of the New Orleans Experience,” (Pelican Publishing Company, 2024) is now available at local bookstores and websites.
Laborde’s other recent publications: “New Orleans: The First 300 Years” and “Mardi Gras: Chronicles of the New Orleans Carnival” (Pelican Publishing Company, 2017 and 2013), are available at the same locations.
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