When the crush of the Carnival season becomes a bit much, a homey meal in a peaceful setting can reset the soul. And if the chef behind it is Susan Spicer – well it doesn’t get much better than that. So if you get caught up in the madness, take a time out to consider Rosedale, a quintessentially NOLA nook that is perfect for escaping the crowds.
The vibe is folksy and low-key. Rooms are paneled with local art and the furnishings largely built by Spicer’s husband Chip Martinson, who is both a chef and woodworker. Buildings don’t often get as good of an origin story as does Rosedale, which along the way has served as a police precinct. Situated on a huge lot that backs up against train tracks in a part of New Orleans that even locals might have trouble finding, it feels as small town as one can feel in the heart of the city.
The crowd here is loyal and local, skewing slightly older and made up of people who have followed Spicer throughout her career. Though Spicer has other restaurants, one feels that at this point Rosedale is where her heart lies. That you will often find her here in the kitchen says volumes. And it is not just the clientele who are loyal – it is also the staff, many of whom have worked for Spicer for several years across her other restaurants in an industry notorious for high turnover. This yields a close-knit, family-style restaurant.
While any seating is pleasant enough, Rosedale’s artful sandwiches put forward a decidedly lunch-friendly feel. Lunch also allows you to lounge in the sun-splashed patio (heated in winter) whose lush plantings and open space abutting railroad tracks lend a small-town vibe. After sunset the string lights come on for a festive feel. Regardless of whether you visit for lunch or dinner, consider the duck pastrami sandwich. The duck breast responds enthusiastically to the pastrami-style curing treatment, yielding a complexly seasoned protein that gets built out with Russian dressing, pickled red onion and cabbage piled atop grilled sourdough. Rosedale’s relative proximity to the Fairgrounds also puts one in mind for a cochon de lait po-boy, with succulent shredded pork smothered in Creole mayonnaise and peppery-sweet slaw. Or keep things simple with a grilled pimento cheese sandwich. That will leave you with some room for small plates like the Greek taramasalata (Spicer is famously devoted to Mediterranean cuisine), whose salty pops of fish roe play out against the namesake creamy schmear. Or fried cauliflower, where crab boil adds body to the nuggets glazed with pepper jelly. Who knew cauliflower could be so compelling?
Desserts are simple, with timeless options like pecan pie, and drinks are spearheaded by a range of local craft breweries with options both canned and on tap – Zony Mash is recommended for the former and Gnarly Barley for the later. Wine lovers will be satiated as well, as the list leans on Bayona’s cultivated fine dining distributor relationships.
All in all Rosedale captures the essence of today’s Susan Spicer. “Rosedale is smaller and a more personable restaurant for me,” Spicer said. “I’ve got my family involved here. I also think this is the way people like to eat these days. Don’t get me wrong — there is always a place for fine dining – but when I go out now I tend to want just good food made from scratch and a nice glass of wine.” On these counts, Rosedale delivers.
Rosedale, 801 Rosedale Drive, Navarre, (504) 309-9595, Rosedalerestaurant.com
About the Chef
Chef Susan Spicer burst onto the scene in the 90s, forging a reputation for thoughtful global cuisine as well as blazing a trail for women in the industry. She has collected loads of industry accolades along the way, including (most recently) the Ella Brennan Lifetime Achievement Award. Her father was in the military so they moved around growing up, which helped shape her signature multifaceted style. Bayona – her fine dining powerhouse – is what made her a household name in the 90s. But at heart she is a West Bank girl, more happy in a casual setting than a fancy one. Rosedale is the best expression of this sentiment.
About the Chef
Chef Susan Spicer burst onto the scene in the 90s, forging a reputation for thoughtful global cuisine as well as blazing a trail for women in the industry. She has collected loads of industry accolades along the way, including (most recently) the Ella Brennan Lifetime Achievement Award. Her father was in the military so they moved around growing up, which helped shape her signature multifaceted style. Bayona – her fine dining powerhouse – is what made her a household name in the 90s. But at heart she is a West Bank girl, more happy in a casual setting than a fancy one. Rosedale is the best expression of this sentiment.