One of the greatest joys of being a gastronome in a city like New Orleans is that, when you live here long enough, you get to witness some of your favorite chefs and restaurateurs grow and change in delightful and often unexpected ways. Among these special people is Chef Michael Stoltzflus, whom most of us know from his work helming Coquette, one of the most beloved modern eateries in town, as evidenced not just by the steady patronage of local diners over the years, but also its various accolades from the national and international culinary community. So, when Stoltzflus and his team launch a new project, local gourmands are right to perk up their ears and pay attention.
Here Today, the newest venture from Stoltzflus and his team, is just as noteworthy as all their previous restaurants — particularly the ones taking up residence in the same cozy space on Constance Street in the Lower Garden District — not just for what it is, but for what it isn’t. One might rightly expect the spot to continue in its tradition of hosting elevated fine dining concepts like the ones that operated out of its kitchen in years past, including Thalia, Ana Castro’s Lengua Madre, or the high-end tasting menu experience of Wild South. Instead, Stoltzflus decided to go in the opposite direction, much to the surprise of his fans: a take-out rotisserie chicken restaurant.
The question is, how did a talented chef with multiple James Beard nominations and a track record of elevated and artful cuisine decide to go full-on rustic, down home family style? To hear him tell it, the concept came naturally. “It’s something we’ve been kind of keeping in our back pocket for a while,” he said. “We always knew we wanted to do it, and we had that space on Magazine where Suprette was, across from Hotel St. Vincent, that we were heavily developing into a full-service restaurant. And we realized during COVID just how expensive everything got, and how long the lead times were. Our wood-fired grill needed a hood that would have taken six months to even be shipped to New Orleans. So we kind of pivoted then and decided to do something a little simpler. And that’s where rotisserie kind of came about.”
Stoltzfus realized that there was an available niche in the local dining scene perfect for the type of restaurant he had in mind. “You can spend a lot of money and get takeout and delivery on fancy food, or you can get fast food delivered, but there wasn’t a lot of in-between,” he said. “There weren’t things that I was excited about that would make good leftovers, and at a reasonable price point. I was like, ‘Man, I just want to serve good food that is accessible and is helpful, and at the same time still use the same quality ingredients that we’re using at our other restaurants. We’re still really excited about the ingredients and the ethos and all the things that I’ve learned over 17 years of having Coquette, and kind of distilling that down into something much more casual.”
For those of us who have harried workdays and family lives and can’t always find the time or budget to dine out, having the Coquette team prepare a homey family meal to take home sounds like something of a godsend. But really, it’s all about the chicken and sides, which shouldn’t seem something entirely novel or remarkable, and yet they’re both. Here Today hits the sweet spot of balancing high quality local ingredients and attention to detail without breaking the bank or becoming – God forbid – another boring chicken joint. Local diners have taken note, and with the success of Here Today’s take-out model, Stoltzflus decided recently to fully open as a dine-in eatery as well.
The hallmark menu item — a full or half rotisserie chicken served sliced or whole — is shockingly spot on and darn-near perfect, with a flavorful skin lacquered in a signature glaze, and roasted at a time and temperature that precisely results in juicy meat that never comes out stringy or spongy. Naturally, you’ll want to try all of the sauces available, which range from celery hot sauce and sesame chili oil to garlic mayo, honey mustard, tangy barbecue, and this writer’s favorite, cilantro ranch. As for sides to go with your bird, Stoltzflus doesn’t slack on those either, dishing up spicy stewed cabbage with bacon, roasted potatoes, rotisserie cauliflower, broccoli slaw and “chicken fat rice,” which is exactly as satisfying as it sounds. If, however, the standard plate of poultry and sides doesn’t feed your yen, there are a few composed dishes as well, like a simple rigatoni with vodka sauce, a chicken salad platter and a refreshingly light but satiating rotisserie chicken bowl with brown rice, cucumber, yogurt and mint. Want some chicken stock or chicken salad to bring home for later snacking or cooking? They have you covered there, too.
For Stoltzflus, the pivot from high dining to homey family meals has been a rewarding one so far. “I think one of the coolest things about this project is how we interact with our guests,” he said. “With Coquette and the Columns, Wild South, Lengua Madre, they’re always based on celebrations and special occasions. But with Here Today, it’s more about nourishment. Instead of getting all dressed up for a night out, our guests are coming in to feed their family for the night, and probably the next night, too. It just changes the interaction, which I’m really enjoying. And it’s fun for me, too. This is my happy place. This is what I love. I’m making something simple, that’s good, that’s homey, that I’m just excited to share with you.”
About the Chef
Originally from Maryland, Chef Michael Stoltzflus grew up on a dairy farm and taught himself to cook while running his mother’s local bakery. In true New Orleans fashion, he found himself following a girl to the Big Easy, only to fall in love with the city instead. After making his bones under John Besh’s Restaurant August, Stoltzflus opened Coquette, where he’s helmed the kitchen for 17 years and along the way garnering not just the adoration of local gourmands, but acclaim from the global culinary community as well. During that time, Stoltzflus spearheaded a number of notable projects, including a menu revamp at the Columns Hotel, the gourmet grocery Superette, and a quaint space on Constance Street that has over the years hosted Thalia, Lengua Madre and Wild South. Earlier this year, he opened Here Today Rotisserie in that same spot, where it offers both seated and take out dining.
