Haute Plates - September 2010

In Which The Reader Learns That I Love Tongue

The concept of “nose to tail” eating is probably most associated with chef Fergus Henderson, whose cookbook of the same name was published in 1999. Five years earlier, Henderson opened the St. John restaurant in London. There Henderson cooked British…

An Eclectic Creole Classic in the Quarter

I’ve known Andreas Preuss, son of Gunter and Evelyn Preuss, for many years. We have a tradition of going to Broussard’s with a few other friends on the Friday before Mardi Gras, just after lunch, to spend an hour or…

The Dream of Dairy

Pity the lactose-intolerant, for they miss out on one of the most diverse and delicious foodstuffs available to humanity. In thinking about cheese recently, it occurred to me that if milk could dream, it would dream of becoming cheese. It’s…

Sunday Italian

When I heard that John Besh was opening an Italian restaurant in the Roosevelt Hotel, which was then still undergoing extensive renovations, my expectations were high. Besh is a canny restaurateur, and his flagship, August, is among my favorite places…

Food, Drink and Music on Frenchmen

Three Muses opened at 536 Frenchmen St. on Aug. 11. The restaurant-bar takes its name from its three owners: Chef Daniel Esses helms the kitchen, Christopher Starnes manages the operation, and Sophie Lee is the music coordinator. It’s a relatively…