Julia Street: City Hall and Snowballs

Dear Julia,
In the late 1950s, while attending L. E. Rabouin Junior and Senior Vocational High School, I was invited to meet with the late Mayor deLesseps Story Morrison at City Hall. I believe it was on Loyola Avenue and was relatively new. If I recall correctly, I think the one before that was on Carondelet Street or St. Charles Avenue.
Does the old City Hall still exist, where, and what is its current use?
– William C. Bradshaw, Apple Valley, California

Yes, the former city hall still stands on St. Charles Avenue across from Lafayette Square. It is formally known as Gallier Hall, named after James Gallier, the Irish-born architect who designed the building which was completed in 1853. In a city known for its great architecture, Gallier Hall is one of the most beloved examples. The three-story marble Greek Revival building, with its handsome fluted Ionic columns, has a stately look befitting a seat of government. By the 1950s, city government, which had occupied Gallier Hall for nearly a century, had outgrown the building so a new place was clearly needed.

Under Morrison, the building on Perdido Street, off of Loyola Avenue, was constructed. It was one of several modernist public buildings built during that time, including the current main library and police headquarters. Still referred to as the “new” city hall, the building, which was supposed to reflect New Orleans as an emerging post-war city, has never been very popular. Rather than Greek Revival it looks more like a big white rectangular box. Through the years the building has frequently needed repairs, especially its dicey elevator system.

There have been several attempts to relocate city hall, including to the nearby municipal auditorium or adapting one of the downtown office towers, but there has always been opposition, mostly because of parking or density issue.

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Gallier Hall serves as a mostly ceremonial and special events place. It is where Carnival krewes are toasted on their way to Canal Street. Downstairs there is a small performance theater that had originally been developed by the recreation department. It is still available for general use.

As the city approached the 2018 Tricentennial, the administration of Mayor Mitch Landrieu launched a restoration effort. The results have been impressive. The interior has an old-world grandeur.

Meanwhile the “new” city hall awaits an acceptable replacement. After the building was opened in 1957, the Carnival krewes that had been toasted at Gallier Hall were rerouted to pass in front of the new building. But the krewes did not like the change. The building was out of the way and there certainly was not the grandeur of St. Charles Avenue. Gallier Hall was returned to being Carnival’s ceremonial capital, a title it will probably always hold.

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Hey Julia,
What is your favorite snowball flavor?
Fred Grassley, New Orleans

Finally, the question I have most wanted to be asked all these years. It is totally profound and relevant, especially during the month of July. Anyone who knows snowballs from the culinary perspective should know the answer to this, without having to ask, but for those who don’t know…

My favorite snowball flavor is the tart lemon.

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Be careful, I am not talking about the regular oversweet mass-produced lemon flavor served at all other snowball stands. No, I am talking about a flavor that can only be found one place in the world – Hansen’s Sno-Bliz on Tchoupitoulas Street. When Ernest and Mary Hansen opened their snowball business in 1934, Ernest operated his one-of-a-kind ice crusher machine that made the finest snow anywhere, including the Alps. Mary worked in the kitchen creating the flavors. The tart lemon was her creation. As the name suggests, it is lemony but not too sweet. Now operated by granddaughter Ashley Hansen, the place is open each summer through October, so don’t procrastinate. You will want to return.

 

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