Dear Julia,
I know there has been a long tradition for grillades and grits being served at the breakfast after Carnival balls. Why? What are grillades anyway? Oh, and why is turtle soup served to krewe members before a ball?
– Frances Jones, Uptown
Grillades and Grits (Poydras calls it “G and G”) is one of Carnival’s great dishes. It is a good hearty repast served after a long night of ball attending. Some say it is a New Orleans dish, I think it is more accurate to say it is a Southern Creole creation, which I guess would include New Orleans. The giveaway is that this city has never been much of a grits-eating town like in places along the Atlantic Southeast, such as Charleston. Were it not for the grits, I guess the grillades and gravy would be served over rice—and that is very native to Louisiana.
Some people think that the name “grillades” means that the meat is grilled. Actually, it is more often sautéed. And the meat can be beef, pork or veal. Cooking the cuts in a hearty gravy of bell peppers, celery, onions and tomatoes does kick up the flavor.
New Orleans is the town that has most popularized the dish, primarily because of Carnival balls, which are the only place where guests in evening dresses and white tie and tails stand in a buffet line for the servings (which also include biscuits used to sop up the sauce). Nothing could be more dietarily excellent than finishing the post-midnight meal with king cake. If you really want to be native, go to the bar and order a Sazerac.
Another food that has a unique role in Carnival balls is turtle soup. Unlike grlliades, the soup is served early in the evening, traditionally to the krewe backstage at the ball, especially at the male organizations. Here’s a Carnival secret, and if you say you read it here, I will deny it: Turtle soup is especially good for those who will be riding on a float or participating in a ball for hours because it is a diuretic. Why? Poydras says I should let you figure out the rest.
Hi Julia,
Is it true that the Zulu Queen is always from out of town?
-Anne Blanchard, Gentilly
No Anne, that’s not true at all. Most often they live in New Orleans because, by tradition, the Queen is selected by the Zulu King and so she is usually an acquaintance.
I think the reason for the confusion is that while the Queen-select is usually from New Orleans, she frequently ARRIVES from out of town. That started in 1977 when the Queen-to-be, New Orleans native Geneva Mercadel who, through marriage would be best known as Dee Tucker, was an aspiring actress working in Hollywood.
Because she had to fly in from Los Angeles, the Zulu Chiefs arranged a festive ceremony at which an entourage would greet her at the airport, along with the expected brass bands, second-line, hoopla, Champagne and a motorcade into town.
That arrival proved to be so much fun that the Zulus wanted to repeat it every year. The problem was that most often the Queen-to-be was already in New Orleans, so arrangements were made to fly her elsewhere so then she could be royally greeted when she returned.
There have been occasional challenges. In 2022 the arriving Queen, Crystal Monique Guillemet, who was dressed beautifully in a lacy white dress topped by a feathery hat, had to wear a matching face mask during that COVID time. Nevertheless, the Champagne flowed even as members had to lift the bottom of their masks to take a sip.
Remember Professor Longhair’s song “Going to the Mardi Gras.” One of the classic lyrics was, “You will see the Zulu Queen down on St. Claude and Dumaine.” A timelier lyric would be that “you will see the Zulu Queen down on Airline and I-10.”
