Ice cream has no season, but if it did, it would be now. Ice cream consumption is highest in July and August, which should come as no surprise, but for many of us it is a year-round obsession.
There are many quality commercial brands of ice cream, so some may question the logic of making your own. In the first place, making ice cream is fun, and with modern ice cream machines, it is not the production it once was — requiring ice, salt and manual churning. Those who are nostalgic can still do it the old-fashioned way, but with today’s countertop machines homemade ice cream is a breeze.
Making your own ice cream also gives you complete control over the process, which means that you can make varieties of ice cream that suit your own taste with ingredients that you choose, without additives, stabilizers or artificial flavors. As a bonus, making your own is a lot cheaper than buying premium brands.
The four ice cream recipes this month are all made with a custard base of egg yolks, whole milk and sugar. There is no cream in any of them; as a result, they are lighter than those made with heavy cream.
After churning, the ice cream can be eaten immediately while it is still soft or it can be packed into containers and frozen. If frozen, remove the containers from the freezer and allow the contents to soften before serving.
I like to freeze ice cream in one-cup containers, which is enough for one sensible or two smallish servings. After filling the containers, store them in the freezer upside down. That way the ice cream forms a seal against the top and there is no space for air to do its damage. When removed from the freezer, the ice cream softens quicker and you’re not left with a half-empty container of ice cream that suffers from partial defrosting, refreezing and exposure to air.
Date and Walnut Ice Cream
Pit and chop 4 large dates. Coarsely chop ½ cup walnut pieces. Place in a small bowl with ¼ cup brandy. Stir to combine. Set aside.
Heat 3½ cups whole milk in a heavy saucepan to just below a boil. In a mixing bowl, beat 8 egg yolks and ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar until light and airy.
Slowly add hot milk to egg yolks, a little at a time, while whisking constantly. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a high-heat silicone spatula until thickened. The mixture will coat the spatula when ready and a finger drawn across the spatula will leave a track.
Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a mixing bowl. Add date and walnut mixture and 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract and whisk to combine. Place the bowl in a larger bowl of ice and water and stir until cool. Refrigerate until cold, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Makes about 1 quart.
“Airplane Cookie” Ice Cream
Many of us first encountered these crisp caramelly cookies on airline flights, where they have been served since 1986.
- 8 Biscoff cookies
- 3½ cups whole milk
- 8 egg yolks
- ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1. Place cookies in a plastic storage bag and crush with a rolling pin. Set aside.
2. Heat milk in a heavy saucepan to just below a boil. In a mixing bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until light and airy. Slowly add hot milk to egg yolks, a little at a time, while whisking constantly. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a high-heat silicone spatula until thickened. The mixture will coat the spatula when ready and a finger drawn across the spatula will leave a track.
3. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a mixing bowl. Add crushed cookies and vanilla and whisk to combine. Place the bowl in a larger bowl of ice and water and stir until cool. Refrigerate until cold, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Makes about 1 quart
French Roast Coffee Ice Cream
Add two to four tablespoons of bourbon, brandy or rum in the final step, if desired.
- ½ cup ground French roast coffee
- 3½ cups whole milk
- 8 egg yolks
- ¾ cup granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1. Combine coffee and milk in a heavy saucepan and bring almost to a boil. Remove from heat, cover and macerate for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve to remove most of the coffee grounds, then through several layers of cheesecloth. Return coffee milk to a clean saucepan and bring to just below a boil.
2. In a mixing bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until light and airy. Slowly add hot coffee milk to egg yolks, a little at a time, while whisking constantly. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a high-heat silicone spatula until thickened. The mixture will coat the spatula when ready and a finger drawn across the spatula will leave a track.
3. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a mixing bowl. Place the bowl in a larger bowl of ice and water and stir until cool. Add vanilla. Refrigerate until cold, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Makes about 1 quart
Mexican Chocolate Ice Cream
Combine 3½ cups whole milk, ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa and ¼ cup almond flour in a heavy saucepan, whisk to combine and heat to just below a boil. In a mixing bowl, beat 8 egg yolks and ¾ cup granulated sugar until light and airy. Slowly add hot milk to egg yolks, a little at a time, while whisking constantly. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a high-heat silicone spatula until thickened. The mixture will coat the spatula when ready and a finger drawn across the spatula will leave a track.
Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a mixing bowl. Add ¼ cup bittersweet chocolate chips and stir until chocolate is melted. Add 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract and 1 teaspoon pure almond extract and whisk to combine. Place the bowl in a larger bowl of ice and water and stir until cool. Refrigerate until cold, then process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Makes about 1 quart.
