Doing the Tricentennial thing, our cover story this month features recipes from French Canada from which the LeMoyne Brothers, Iberville and Bienville, arrived. The information is fine if you’re cooking at home. I was wondering, however, what if we were on a trip to the Canadian maritime province and wanted to go native at the restaurants. What should we get?
Well, fish of course. (Canadian beef eating is more in the Alberta area, north of Montana.) There would be the expected cod, halibut, and lobsters. Warm chowder is always good on the side, as is macaroni and cheese. (Another favorite side dish is one of our featured recipes, poutine, a mountain of fries topped with cheese curds and gravy.)
If you really want to go local in Canada, there is one item that is a must, and you can start at breakfast – Tim Horton’s doughnuts. Founded by a former hockey player this chain is pervasive throughout the country, but is especially popular in the Atlantic coastal region. Canada’s crisp chilly weather and Tim Horton’s hot doughnuts are a natural pairing, especially when chased by Horton’s signature coffee. (The doughnuts come in a variety of flavors, but first-timers should try the maple.)
If the chain had been around in 1700, the Lemoyne Brothers would have, I suspect, brought a box with them, though there might have been a fall off in taste when splashed with salt water.
We are, of course, an area also known for our sugary pastry, beignets, and our café au lait, which probably has more kick than Tim Horton’s brand. Nevertheless, it is interesting that between French Canada and here, there is a cultural link not only historically, but with coffee and doughnuts. Only in New Orleans don’t look for any legacy with hockey players.
Errol Laborde
CORRECTION: ST. ROCH AND BYWATER
Our April cover story honoring the Bywater neighborhood featured the St. Roch market on the cover. For photography purposes the market provided a great image.
While we consider St. Roch to be a striking symbol of the neighborhood area, we should have, however, qualified that the market is near Bywater and not a part of it. (The same is true with The Healing Center across the street.) We regret the error. We hope that those who are a part of Bywater accept the admiration that we meant to express.
