It takes something special to open up a new pub in New Orleans and have local nightlife and culinary enthusiasts perk up their ears in excitement. And yet, that’s exactly what happened late last year when a passionate team from Charleston decided that their next outpost would be a British-inspired pub in Mid-City. The Bell, the latest offering from South Carolina restaurateur Brooks Reitz and his partners, opened its doors in Bayou St. John last November, and the result is every bit as delightful, cozy and satisfying as you’d hope if you happen to have a fondness for classic British pub fare and beverages.
The Bell is, in essence, a New Orleans British pub, a satisfying amalgam of all the things anglophiles love about a great English bar, combined with a distinctly Crescent City sensibility. According to Reitz, it all started with the location. “We’re drawn to great buildings, first and foremost,” he said. “And we like that sense of history and soul that’s in the bones of an old building, and The Bell had that in spades. We started to think about what would be great to find a project to do outside of Charleston, and my business partner Tim had moved to New Orleans. I think there’s a lot of kinship with Charleston and New Orleans, and they’re similar in lots of ways. There’s a sense of history and the architecture and a community that loves food and beverage, it just felt like a natural fit.”
And a natural fit it is indeed. Nestled along a verdant stretch of Esplanade Avenue, The Bell seems almost tailor-made for the neighborhood. Inside, you’ll find a handsome, amiable dining room decked out in its finest casual English attire, which includes plenty of tartan, dark woods and leather. Though it’s a modest space, the spot offers ample seating in their courtyard for al fresco dining and libations, with eventual plans for an outdoor oyster bar as well, making it truly unique among Crescent City eateries. But what about the cuisine? While many Americans might have outdated and unfounded opinions about British food being uninspired or bland — especially to New Orleans diners — the offerings at The Bell provide a surprisingly refined take on English classics that incorporate our local ingredients and sensibilities.
“From day one, we said to one another that we were not trying to open a replica or an exact British pub,” said Reitz. “We have some pubby-esque things, but we don’t have bangers and mash, and we don’t have fish and chips. I would say we’re drawing more inspiration from some of our favorite restaurants in London that are not necessarily pubs, but what the Brits do really well. They have a real appreciation for great ingredients that are not fussed with too much. It was really less about creating this exact kind of pub menu, and more about creating a menu that had the same sensibility for simplicity, deliciousness and clarity on the plate. It’s simple, it’s straightforward, and it’s delicious, and we’re not pulling too many tricks on you, you know?”
Retiz’s ethos shines forward on the menu, courtesy of Ari Kolender, executive chef Joseph Guevara, and local chef, Marcus Jacobs, who you might recognize from his projects Marjie’s Grill and Porgy’s Seafood Market. Appetizers are seafood heavy, and include familiar broiled oysters, although here topped with smoked English cheddar, as well as fried mussels, and a not-to-be-missed smoked trout dip that’s tangy and luscious, served with fried saltines.
You’ll find main courses at The Bell to be every bit as hearty and gratifying as you’d expect from classic UK pub fare. A dish of crispy, roasted chicken thighs with parsnip purée seems almost deceptively simple, until you dig in and find out that, sometimes, simplicity — when well executed — can be a beautiful thing. Shepherd’s pie is retooled to incorporate Gulf fish and shrimp as a “fishmonger’s pie.” Similarly, instead of fish and chips, you’ll find a hearty fried fish sandwich dressed with celery root remoulade and paired with house-made french fries. You can also sample those fries as a side or with a juicy, medium-rare steak, but either way, you absolutely don’t want to miss them.
Naturally, it wouldn’t be a pub without the appropriate beverage offerings, and to that end General Manager (and native Englishman) Andrew Bell is passionate about ensuring that The Bell’s ales and lagers are all served in Imperial pints and poured according to British standards, especially when it comes to the perfect pint of draught Guinness. “It’s something that does take a bit of skill and thought to do properly,” he said, and noted that they even welcomed representatives from Guinness to train the local staff in how to draw the perfect pint.
Whether you’re out for a leisurely afternoon of pints with friends after boating on the bayou or watching a soccer (sorry, “football”) match, or a romantic date night in a cozy spot, The Bell has you covered, and is both a comforting and and gratifying addition to the city’s fine tradition of drinking establishments with equally impressive menus. Most of all, Reitz and his team are just grateful for their warm welcome in the Crescent City. “It’s been insanely positive,” he said, “especially in the neighborhood where we are on Bayou St. John. We’re pretty blown away with the neighborhood being so supportive, so early. I’ve always felt like New Orleans is a great restaurant town. It’s not like we came here because we had something to show someone. We’re just thrilled to be a part of an already rich and great dining scene, and I’m so tickled that we’ve been welcomed with open arms, and that people have responded to what we’re doing.”
About the Chef
Brooks Reitz is the first to admit that he isn’t a chef, although he has a long history of working in restaurants since he was a teenager. After getting a degree in English and theater, he soon dawned on the realization that creating a restaurant isn’t unlike staging an elaborate play. Reitz’s epiphany eventually led him to open a string of successful restaurants in Charleston with business partner Tim Mink. For his first project outside of Charleston, Reitz decided that New Orleans seemed like the best fit, and after many painstaking months searching for the perfect location, his team opened The Bell in Mid-City late last year.
