My grandfather was born Uptown shortly after his parents immigrated from Sweden. As a child I would marvel as he pushed aside plates of my Seventh Ward-born grandmother’s glorious grillades, etouffee, and smothered vegetables, favoring instead to nibble buttered white bread while he longed for things like boiled potatoes, pickled herring and sardines. Born in the early 1900s, save for the potatoes, the native foods of Sweden would have been unavailable to him as a child. This left me to assume his culinary preferences were somehow embedded in his DNA.
It was obvious that his November 1986 birthday would be the octogenarian’s last so my father honored his father with a sack of Gulf oysters, the only ingredient in the Louisiana pantry worthy of my grandfather’s favor. An excellent cook like his mother, my father crafted upwards of 44 dozen hand-shucked oysters into roasted, grilled, steamed, fried, Bienville and Rockefeller incarnations. The many who attended Andrew Ernest Benson Sr.’s final birthday party were thrilled with the elaborate menu—everyone except the guest of honor. He liked them raw, straight-up, naked, nothing on them. I sat stunned watching that frail old man wolf down about thirteen dozen raw ones. Shortly thereafter he died happy. Like my grandfather, I eagerly anticipate the cooler months when oysters are cold, briny, and at their prime. Unlike him, I will take them any way I can get them.
What to Serve With Oysters
Champagne! A 2020 study by the University of Copenhagen uncovered the reason why oysters and Champagne are such a perfect pairing. Both contain complementary sets of umami flavors that act “synergistically” to enhance taste. The answer came as a surprise to Professor Ole Mouritsen, one of the study’s authors, because umami (savoriness) is most associated with meat. Certain chemicals in champagne and oysters pair well to “spark an umami synergy… that greatly enhances the taste of the champagne,” explained the study, the champagne’s acidity and bubbles also contribute to the overall impression. Pommery Champagne, the iconic French Champagne house, recently released its annual, limited edition, holiday gift box. The 2023 theme is Kashmir: An Invitation to Travel. The boxes are available stocked with Brut Royal $55.00, Brut Royal Rosé $70.00, Brut Apanage $60, Blanc de Blancs $50.00 and Grand Cru Royal 2009 $80.00. Available at Martin Wine Cellar, 3827 Baronne St., 504-899-7411, martinwine.com.
How to Serve Oysters:
When raw, I like oysters with icy Mignonette Sauce. For fried oysters I will throw my hat in with chef Eric Cook (Gris Gris, Saint John) every time. He has cracked the code on frying oysters, so they are always crisp, juicy and flavorful.
Mignonette Sauce
Makes about 2/3 cup
1/4 cup finely-minced shallots (from 1 to 2 shallots)
1/3 cup white wine or Champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black or white peppercorns
Pinch of sea salt
Combine all ingredients. Chill for 30 minutes before serving with raw oysters.
