Last month (our November issue) this column took on a losing cause defending why, with respect for historical accuracy, the native sandwich should be called “poor boy” and not “po-boy,” as bastardized in just about every menu in town.
As part of my rant I made this offer: “If any food service place that uses the proper name lets us know, we will gladly plug it in this space.”
Well, lo and behold, I heard from Eddie Bowdon, who, along with his wife, Jenifer Drake, has just opened a new restaurant in the French Quarter called Evangeline (329 Decatur St., 908-8008, EvangelineNola.com).
Here then is the promised plug as written by Bowdon: “A locavore concept, Evangeline specializes in fresh, seasonal items purchased directly from local farmers markets three times per week. The wild catfish poor boy, a house specialty, is caught, not farm raised, from Lac des Allemands in Lafourche Parish. The same care goes into the procurement of local shrimp and softshell crab.”
A scan of the menu also reveals a shrimp poor boy that, like the catfish version, is served with sweet potato fries.
Oh, and on the weekend brunch menu Bowden recommends, “the egg poor boy, normally paired with a spicy Bloody Mary or Pomegranate Mimosa.”
This edition looks at the Best of Dining, top selections around town as selected by our panel of food writers and editors. Evangeline was too new to be considered for this issue, nor have I tried it. I am just honoring a promise. I will say this – if the care for doing things right as reflected on the menu is also practiced in the kitchen this place is going to be a winner. Maybe the “poor boy” can survive.