In front of me is a jar of recently purchased Tony Mandina’s Red Gravy. As far as I know the brand is the only commercially prepared red gravy anywhere in the world. Red gravy has been a subject of concern, at least in my world, with the announcement that Tony Mandina’s restaurant on the West Bank was closing. (Yes, there are family connections to the Mandina’s on Canal Street, but they are totally different businesses.)
My concern was, what would happen to the jarred red gravy? Fortunately, the Tony Mandina’s hierarchy was quick to relieve anxiety by announcing that the supermarket product (prepared in upstate St. Gabriel) would still be on the market even with the restaurant closed.
That was good news, but still unresolved was the question of what exactly is red gravy and how does it differ from other sauces? Is it the same, for example, as marinara, carbonara, ragu or any other reddish sauce ladled over pasta?
Of greater concern though is that the phrase “red gravy” seems to be disappearing.
Tony Mandina’s menu would include meatballs or Italian sausage both served over angel hair pasta topped with “red gravy.” No equivocating with some other sauces. This was the real thing.
Liuzza’s on Bienville Street in Mid-City might now be the epicenter of red gravy on the menu. There are several dishes that capitalize on the sauce including, most notably, the house specialty, embracing eggplant casserole, meatball, pasta and the “gravy” on top. Kitchens in Palermo would be challenged to create a better dish.
Then there are the domestic variations such as that of a friend who would serve the family roast bathed in red gravy.
Speaking of Sicily: With the flow of immigrants that settled in New Orleans during the 1890s there could have been many that brought recipes from home folded in their pocket. Tony Mandina’s claims that its recipe evolved in the hills of Salaparuta, Sicily, as created by “Maw Maw” Mandina.
There are three words in the boast that give legitimacy to the culinary quality of the claim; “Sicily” and “Maw Maw.” What could be better?
“Maw Maw” aside, there are variations of what the gravy might be; some call it a “creole sauce” or “red eye gravy,” but the safe course is to not stray from the Sicilian roots which includes tomatoes, green peppers, onions and spices. Some recipes add chicken stock. But, and this is important, “NO FLOUR.” Why? I am not sure, but I have no doubt that Maw Maw knew best. Besides, in Louisiana flour is already part of all our roux-based dishes, such as gumbos and étouffées, so its absence gives the gravy is own character. Some recipes call for adding heavy cream. I say keep the gravy as intended.
OK, we are at the moment I have been waiting for: While you have been reading the above paragraph, I went to the office kitchen, got a plastic spoon from the coffee service and opened the jar. There is no microwave, so I am tasting the red gravy at room temperature, as God intended it to be. As might be expected: It is really good. There is an overall sweetness, but the bold tomato flavor clearly dominates, as it should. It is light enough that it could be eaten as a soup, but the flavor burst clearly calls for warm pasta.
A 2018 article in The Times-Picayune quoted restaurateur Sal Impastato comparing red gravy to marinara sauce: “Red gravy is hearty and can stand up to meatballs, Italian sausage, pigs’ feet and beef,” 1mpastato said, “While marinara is better suited for pasta and vegetables, such as eggplant or squash.”
Sounds good to me; though I would keep the pig’s feet on the side. There is, however, always room for an extra meatball.
