In New Orleans, we have a lot of history, and a lot of restaurants. It’s an aspect of this town that makes it so remarkable and appealing for locals and visitors alike. And while restaurants traditionally come and go, the history always remains, especially when it comes to certain spaces that occupy the older sections of the Crescent City like the French Quarter and its surrounding faubourgs. One of those spaces has always lived at the corner of Rampart and Dumaine, which housed Gentilich’s restaurant for most of the 20th century, famously followed by the beloved Marti’s, then Peristyle, Wolfe’s, and then Marti’s again, briefly, before falling vacant for entirely too long for such a special spot. Some of us wondered, perhaps with a bit of fear and sadness, if it might ever again house the kind of loose, vibrant restaurant we’d come to love and associate with that building over the decades.
Fortunately, those fears were put to rest with the opening of Succotash Nola late last year, courtesy of Chef Kimberly Cochran, who goes by “Chef K.” An Alabama native with roots throughout the South, Cochran left a career in finance in Atlanta to follow her passion for the culinary arts, which, in time, led her to New Orleans. Inspired to open her own restaurant, the next question was: where? One visit to the corner of Dumaine and Rampart was all it took for Chef K. to make a decision. “When I went into that building, I could tell y’all knew what you were doing here,” she says. “At one point, this building had been so unloved, and yes, it might look like it’s about to fall down, but real restaurant tours and real chefs were in this building, and this is before I even knew the full history of it. So I said, ‘Ok, I want it,’ because everything was exactly where it was supposed to be to make this restaurant flow properly.” Not that it didn’t take a little – or a lot – of elbow grease to get the room ready for diners. According to Cochran, “We had a lot of work to do to fix the building, but now it’s finally getting the love that it needs. Now we’re going to make it a really beautiful building again, restoring the outside of it, which we’re going to hopefully start this summer. But it was a huge project.”
Diners familiar with the location will be gratified, on entering, to see that most of the famous design elements remain lovingly intact, including the beloved Peristyle mural. It feels wonderfully familiar and exciting, especially for those of us with fond memories of that room and its vibrant, refined atmosphere. Naturally, the cuisine would hopefully equal the ambiance, which is not a small task for a space with such a rich and colorful story. To that end, local gourmands will be delighted to learn that Chef K. brings a menu packed with familiar ingredients and components, only with Cochran’s personal and globally inspired influence that brings favorites like fried softshell crab and dirty rice to new and intriguing places. Says Chef K., “I knew I was going to keep things local and super fresh, and I knew I was going to keep it seafood forward. I didn’t want to do anything pretentious. I want to use all of my products for everything, so that nothing goes to waste. It made sense, it was familiar, it wasn’t pretentious. It was beautiful without being too weird or too modern. I just wanted it to be familiar, but elevated, and just maybe with a different twist on things.”
As for how this translates to the menu at Succotash, diners can expect a host of comforting Southern classics, all with Cochran’s unique touches. For starters, there’s a generous plate of fried frog’s legs sauced with brown butter, scallions and ginger, delightfully paired with a Caribbean fish sauce. “To me, whenever I thought of frog legs, I always thought of a really light batter, and also the fish sauce that you use when you eat vegetable or shrimp tempura from a Japanese restaurant,” she says. You’ll also find deviled eggs – or “Deviled Offspring” as it appears on the menu – here spiked with a Korean Gochuajang flair, topped with pork belly, fried mushrooms and scallions, and your choice of either fried shrimp or oysters, though those two options are non-negotiable with the kitchen. “I won’t let you get it without one or the other,” Cochran claims. “I’ll make you a well done steak, and I’ll add or take away stuff on a plate, but on this deviled egg situation…yeah, you have to get it with the shrimp or the oysters.”
For larger plates, expect, well, larger plates. Cochran’s personal ethos regarding the satiety of her guests is unquestionable; the portions are lovingly generous without coming off as overwhelming. The aforementioned softshell crab dish, humorously dubbed “Crab Menage a Trois” sports a generous fried crustacean topped with lump crabmeat, and served with crab fat coconut rice. In a town where deep fried softshells aren’t exactly rare, the Asian influence and artful plating helps Cochran’s version stand out. There’s also a salmon version of the “menage,” which combines a crispy-skinned salmon fillet with a seafood beurre blanc, salmon roe, and a salmon croquette. Softshell crawfish find a home here, as well, a dish that dates back a few decades to K-Paul’s, here spiked with a sambal butter sauce, giving the dish a fresh take distinct from the version pioneered by Paul Prudhomme. Again, fresh flavors marry well with old favorites at Succotash, just like the space itself, a mix of old and new, vintage and modern. Just like the city itself.
In a building with decades of culinary history and expectations, Kimberly Cochran and her team brim with kind confidence with Succotash’s reign over the space. “I never doubted the food,” says the chef, “and I never doubted the cocktails. Because, man, I have this team, with amazing bartenders and creatives in my space. That’s what I want, to create a space where people can be creative. And I love that my expectations are high so that I can always stay on my toes!”
About the Chef
Raised “mostly” in Mobile Alabama, Chef Kimberly Cochran – or “Chef K,” as she prefers – pursued a career in finance before leaving her corporate position in Atlanta to follow her culinary dreams. Cochran made her bones as a private chef and for events, as well as consulting with restaurants rebuilding after the COVID-19 pandemic. Eventually, Chef K decided to move to New Orleans, not just because of our long tradition of culinary excellence, but also to be closer to her parents. Cochran secured the historic downtown space that famously housed Marti’s and Peristyle (among others) to serve as her first restaurant venture, Succotash. “I just feel honored and blessed that people are interested,” she says, “and to be able to share my gift with other people. I’m going to stay on my toes to make sure that my neighbors, the community around us and the people who live here can say that Succotash is the place you want to go to. I have big shoes to fill, and I’m going to make it happen!”
Levee Baking Co.
New Orleans isn’t exactly a city with a “bakery scarcity” problem. And with so many stellar bakeries at our disposal, choosing one for a leisurely weekend breakfast or an afternoon pick-me-up can be a difficult (if delicious) proposition. Among our many favorites, Levee Baking Co. has been a standout in recent years for their dedication to staying on the cutting edge of “next wave” baking with its tidy and artfully curated menu of pastries, cookies and handmade loaves. Chef Christina Balzebre turned her popup into a cozy spot offering everything from rye brownies to decadent cinnamon rolls, savory breakfast sandwiches and cake by the slice. Just don’t forget to bring a rosemary focaccia home for the family!
Café Reconcile
There’s so much to love about Café Reconcile, starting, of course, with their mission to train local youths in the hospitality industry. While contributing to the community is always a great reason to visit, what keeps us coming back is the cuisine, courtesy of long-adored local chef Martha Wiggins. The menu is deep in New Orleans comfort-food goodness, with standouts including golden crab cakes with crawfish sauce, crispy turkey necks with a sesame-chili glaze, hefty po-boys, and an absolutely killer fried chicken plate. And don’t forget the daily specials; Wednesday’s panéed pork loin with rice and gravy is always a home run in our book
