The Great Heavenly Hash Dash

In 1997 when New Orleans’ native Drug Store chain Katz and Besthoff (K&B) was sold to Rite Aid drugs, a Pennsylvania-based operation, there was uneasiness. K&B, with its classic purple signature color, nectar soda, purple plastic garbage cans and even its own private label booze was so much a part of local culture. Rite Aid, which in this context didn’t even spell “right” right, was a big chain in its part of the country but was not known locally. There was nothing about it that was said to be special.

That suspicion was fully realized with the arrival of the first Easter season after the sale. Locals, who were still getting used to the reality that the new chain in town didn’t even carry Coke, were shocked when they looked at the candy aisles and saw there were no Elmer’s Easter products. Now this had gone too far. Founded in New Orleans, and now based in Ponchatoula, the company has been masterful at making signature Easter candy. There is the Gold Brick, an egg shaped chunk of chocolate filled with pecan specs, but most of all there is the Heavenly Hash. Not to overstate this, but the candy is the city’s – perhaps the world’s – best. A chewy marshmallow inside is covered by dark chocolate with an almond on top. It is sweet, crunchy and totally flavorful. (Elmer’s also makes a non-chocolate Pecan Egg for which a caramel covered nougat is wrapped with pecan pieces.)

An Elmer’s official once told me that after the sale to Rite Aid his company was expecting what had been the usual sizable order from the K&B chain when it learned that the new owner wasn’t going to buy. Then Walgreens stepped in. After it heard about Elmer’s being overlooked by Rite Aid, Walgreens ordered Elmer’s K&B Easter surplus and expanded its candy shelves to include the local brand. 

According to the Elmer’s source, a Rite Aid official would concede that they made a mistake by not ordering Elmer’s Easter products but added that whenever the chain has gone into new markets there was always a native product that locals said they had to have, but it never really made a difference. Elmer’s was different. Never underestimate the emotional impact of a chocolate egg called “heavenly.”

There have been variations in the product through the years. Dark chocolate would replace the traditional lighter chocolate; there are versions where the marshmallow is strawberry flavored; and, of course, the change from pecans to almonds. There’s also the sauce version of the Gold Brick perfect for carrying out nature’s’ mission of topping ice cream.

In 2017, Walgreens bought out about half of Rite Aid’s 2600 stores, including what were the local K&B’s. There is no Rite Aid presence locally. 

In the end, Walgreen’s won the hunt for the “rite” Easter Egg.

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Have something to add to this story, or want to send a comment to Errol? Email him at errol@myneworleans.com. Note: All responses are subject to being published, as edited, in this article. Please include your name and location.

BOOK ANNOUNCEMENTS: Errol’s Laborde’s new book, “When Rex Met Zulu: And Other Chronicles of the New Orleans Experience” (Pelican Publishing Company, 2024, is now available at local bookstores and in the myneworlean.com store.

Laborde’s other recent publications: “New Orleans: The First 300 Years” and “Mardi Gras: Chronicles of the New Orleans Carnival” (Pelican Publishing Company, 2017 and 2013), are available at the same locations.

SOMETHING NEW: Listen to “Louisiana Insider,” a weekly podcast covering the people, places and culture of the state. LouisianaLife.com/LouisianaInsider, Apple Podcasts or Audible/Amazon Music.

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