Recently opened after a long wait, The Kingsway is the hottest ticket in town. The kitchen is headed by Ashwin Vilkhu, the son of the father-son co-Executive Chef team that has garnered several nods from The James Beard Foundation for their exceptional fare at Saffron. The younger Vilkhu developed the prix fixe, Pan Asian tasting-style menu as an homage to the multicultural cuisine he grew up eating at home, due largely to his father’s (Arvinder Vilkhu) having worked with and learned from some of the world’s great culinary talents throughout the course of his international career in the hospitality business.
The chef shared his recipe for Tuna Solera, a complex, though elegant dish that would be an impressive addition to a celebratory holiday or New Year’s Eve menu.
“This sauce celebrates depth through patience: each element builds on the next,” Ashwin Vilkhu said. “The caramelized onions and soy form the backbone, citrus brings lift, and the star anise with green onion lends quiet perfume. Inspired by the solera traditions of Champagne and sherry—where each vintage builds upon a “library” of the past—this sauce gets better every time you make it, and the recipe makes more than you’ll need. Save a spoonful from each batch to fold into the next, and you’ll create a living archive of flavor that matures beautifully over time. Use it with your favorite raw seafood of the best quality; Porgy’s is the best place to find that locally.”
What to Drink with Tuna Solero?
Colin Williams, Director of Beverage and Service for both Saffron and The Kingsway, recommends the Daydreamer cocktail. “It’s our version of a lychee martini that we clarify using milk, which gives it a great texture while still being very light and refreshing. The spice of the tuna elevates the fruity tones of the cocktail and the lemongrass notes while keeping your palate refreshed for the upcoming courses.”
4
servingsIngredients
1 tbsp Neutral oil (such as grapeseed
or canola)1 Medium yellow onion, diced small
1 Whole star anise pod
1-inch Piece of ginger, grated into a paste
2 Cloves garlic, grated or crushed into a paste
1/2 tsp Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp Red chili flakes (adjust to taste)
1 cup Kikkoman soy sauce
1 Green onion, white part only, plus the greens from 2 scallions for garnish
1 1/2 tbsp Brown sugar or jaggery
Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
Zest and juice of 1/2 lime
1 tsp Sesame oil
6 cups Freshly cooked sushi rice (the chef likes Koshihikari)
1/4 cup Rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp Mirin
1 1/2 lbs Yellowfin tuna loin, chilled until firm but not frozen
Ice water, for the garnish
Directions
- Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and the star anise, cooking slowly and stirring often until the onions turn deep golden and caramelized, about 10-12 minutes.
- Add the garlic and ginger paste, stirring for 30 seconds until fragrant. Sprinkle in the black pepper and red chili flakes, toasting briefly to bloom their aroma. Pour in the soy sauce, scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Add the white part of the green onion (reserve the greens for garnish), brown sugar, and the zest and juice of the lemon and lime. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, until the sauce has slightly thickened and is harmoniously balanced. The green onion should soften and release its sweetness.
- Remove and discard the star anise and green onion, then stir in the sesame oil. Strain for a smooth, glossy finish, or leave the onions in for rustic texture. Cool the sauce completely before transferring to a jar. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks—or reserve a spoonful to fold into the next batch, continuing your own “library” of flavor.
- When you’re ready to serve, season the freshly cooked rice with the vinegar and mirin, using a flat paddle or spoon to gently fold them into the rice. The rice should take on a soft gloss and a faint, natural perfume. Allow to cool to room temperature.
- Cut the scallion greens into 3-inch sections, then slice each lengthwise into fine threads. Soak them in ice water for 5 to 10 minutes, until they curl and crisp, then drain and dry gently on a towel.
- With a long, sharp knife, slice the chilled tuna loin across the grain at a 45-degree angle, using smooth, single strokes, into slices about 1/4-inch thick. Avoid sawing—let the blade glide.
- Gently fan out the sliced tuna on a plate. Spoon the solera sauce over it and garnish with the scallion curls. Serve immediately, with the rice and nori on the side for building hand rolls.
