“Haute Plates” has been a column in which I’ve related news about restaurants, written recipes and made comments on food culture generally. That has become problematic – particularly the part where I write about restaurants. There’s news, but it’s not good news for the most part and there are only so many ways to say “takeout” or “Yes, there are outdoor heaters.”

Restaurants keep opening, though; for example, Bywater Brew Pub opened recently at Royal and Montegut streets in the eponymous neighborhood. They have an interesting menu.

On paper it looks like hipster satire. There’s a burger called the “Royal with Cheese” that comes straight from the movie “Pulp Fiction,” and I don’t know how I feel about the “Phoritto,” which is a burrito with things that would otherwise be found in pho except for the soup. Some may say the soup is the essence of pho and given that pho is soup, I agree. It is not my gate to keep, though so …

Here’s the thing. While some of the items on the menu offend my delicate sensibilities where “authenticity” is concerned, everything on the menu looks like it would be tasty if they can pull it off.

Take the spring rolls stuffed with fontina. I want to try the spring rolls stuffed with fontina very much. I love fried things and I love cheese. When you combine those things in a thoughtful way the result is usually delicious.

The folks behind this place are from New Orleans, so one expects they know good food and that Chef Anh Luu will blend her Vietnamese roots with classic Creole flavors to great effect.

I will check them out once I can do the whole “out” thing again and I will thereafter report back. I am optimistic that Bywater Brew Pub will deliver the fried cheese.

I hope all of you had a pleasant Thanksgiving and that you are staying safe.