I’ve always had an unusual love for garlic. It’s one of those few foods for which I understand no threshold of moderation. If the average person can stomach 2 tablespoons in any given dish, I need a quarter-cup’s worth. And for all of the horrid tales I can divulge about my garlic-hoarding ways, I have, perhaps for the first time, a more respectable story to share, thanks to a memorable dinner at Upperline Restaurant.
Last week my husband and I went to Upperline to celebrate our wedding anniversary. (Thanks so much for all of your suggestions, and kudos to Emerald!) As we walked through the first dining room to our table in the back room, we couldn’t help but notice the eclectic art consuming just about every possible inch of wall space. We took our seats; ordered a bottle of Cote du Rhone; and explored the menu, mulling over the duck, the fried green tomatoes, the cornbread, the oysters.
Then came the real surprise: “Garlic Special.” Apparently the restaurant was still serving dishes from its famed Garlic Festival that runs from June to August each year. Can you imagine my excitement? It was almost as if the hubby had phoned the chef ahead of time and told him he wanted to give me the special gift of a three-course meal devoted to and saturated in garlic.
We both decided on our selections from the garlic menu, ordering spicy crispy oysters, tomatoes and Vidalia onions; the Cane River country shrimp; and bread pudding and garlic-and-honey ice cream. Yes, garlic ice cream.
Somewhere between reminiscing about our marriage and the New Orleans Saints, the hubby pointed out to me that I’d eaten the entire meal without asking our waiter for a side of extra garlic. Strangely enough, I hadn’t even noticed. I was so engrossed in each bite, savoring each flavor, that it hadn’t crossed my mind that the overarching theme of our meal was in fact the garlic.
Chef Ken Smith struck a perfect balance. In each dish, the garlic was very subtle, including the ice cream, which had more of a honey flavor with just a kick of something else, a little garlic spice. It was the first time I enjoyed a garlic-laden meal without smelling garlicky upon departure –– and the day after.
I imagine that when food critics assess the quality of a restaurant, they consider all elements of the dining experience — the food, the service, the ambiance and maybe even the bill. The food and the service have always been the key factors in my own evaluations, and sadly, I’ve eaten at far too many places at which these basic elements don’t coexist.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable experience at Upperline. From its charming owner, JoAnn Clevenger, who affectionately visits each table to thank each diner for his or her patronage, to the impeccable professionalism of the wait staff, to the artful presentation of its wonderful dishes, I don’t see how anyone could be disappointed.
There are several aspects I’ll remember about our third anniversary. Perhaps the most glaring is my newfound appreciation for garlic as a complementary flavor rather than an overbearing one. This is probably just common sense to most, but for me, there’s been a rather sharp learning curve. A girl should only stand so much garlic, especially in a city that’s already rich with boldness and flavor.
I’m learning to take it easy on the garlic. That’s right: The Jersey girl’s learning to take it easy in the Big Easy.
